This is the ninth year I've shown up to photograph la traversee de Paris. The event is run twice a year, once in early January and once in late July/early August. Each time I go I try to find a different way to photograph the event, and each year I've tried to improve my "seeing" of the very common subject that is the automobile.
For this years summer event (the "estivale") I decided to try to separate automobiles from a darker background by using flash fill. You've probably rightly guessed that I've read a bit too much Joe McNally and David Hobby.
Flash setup -
- Three Yongnuo YN560 flash units
- Mounted on a cold shoe bracket that takes the three flashes
- Triggered by a cheap wireless FM RC setup -
- Trigger on camera
- Two receivers mounted to two of the three remote units
- These two flash units to "M" - manual
- One of the flash units to "S1" - slave1
This allows all three flashes to trigger simultaneously.
The whole plot was put on top of a cheap flash stand. The off-camera stand allowed me good flexibility on where to place the lighting rig. It can be far from the camera. It can be lowered and put close to the subject. I can move the lighting rig to the shadow side of the scene. Or I could place the rig right up over the camera. In other words, in running cable-free RF triggered flash units I can arrange the rig as I feel the scene demands.
My biggest concern about this setup centered around Real World flash output. I'd measured the output of these cheap Chinese flashes and the Guide
Number is truly 22. The published GN of 58 is wrong under the
conditions I find myself in. I feared that it would be a real challenge to
get three flashes to balance and ultimately overpower the sun.
Camera setup -
- Sony A7 with stored setup in mode "M1"
- ISO100
- 1/200th sec shutter speed (which I'd tested before leaving home to confirm the shutter wouldn't cut the upper portion of the frame)
- White Balance set to "Daylight" (which in Sony World is 5025Kelvin - about 500Kelvin lower than I like as the flash is too blue, so I had to adjust in processing, and will need to set the WB manually to 5500 in the future and save it as part of my "M1" selection)
- Nikon Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 Ai
manual focus lens adapted to the A7
- Find the desired aperture setting by watching the exposure needles while turning the aperture ring
My original goal was to lightly over-drive the flash output to the background exposure. I had intended to drop the metered exposure -1EV to -2EV.
Yet once I was on scene and working I realized I kind of preferred setting the overall exposure as the multi-zone exposure system reported it at 0EV adjustment. In the end this was a lucky choice. It kept the sky from blowing out. The non-sky portion of the scene was between -0.5EV, or perhaps -1.5EV, depending on where the sun was relative to the subject and the direction I pointed the lens in. For the most part this was what I was looking for.
The day started out cloudy. With overcast skies I could set the flash power on all three units between 1/8 and 1/4 power. I breathed a sigh of relief. The flash units could recycle quickly and I wasn't burning the batteries to the ground by having to use 1/2 or 1 Power all the time.
This would become my process. Meter the scene by watching the needles move with respect to the aperture. Take a shot. Look at the result. Adjust the flash power output up or down depending on what I saw.
After the sun came out, I found I could put the three flash units between 1/2 to 1 (Full Pop) Power. This rig could augment the sun and I could actually under-expose the overall scene by 1EV. Since the flashes were doing their "thing" by blasting as much light as they could give, the subject was brought back into proper exposure.
The overall experience made me wish for a couple of things. First, I wished for accurate GN's. While GN22 got the job done, to not make the flashes work so hard I think I'll need to add one or two more units to the rig.
Certainly Sony, Nikon, and Canon all make accurate Guide Number claims. To have three SB800, for instance, would add overall flexibility to my setup, but those are expensive. Just one SB800 used on the open market would be more than I paid for the three Yongnuo's new. Obviously you _do_ sometimes get what you pay for.
On the other hand, with a little DIY I should be able to add two more cold shoes if/when the time comes and I feel the need for more Cheap Chinese Light.
Image "Explore"'d on Flickr
7 August, 2022
The second thing I wished for is really a minor thing in the overall scheme of things. For 30 percent of the photos I wish I'd dropped the metered exposure 1/2 stop further. Some of my images, while looking pretty decent, could've benefited from a slightly darker background as a way to help make the primary subject "pop" a bit more. The white Porsche 356 is a good example of that. Compare this image to the Corvette above it and you'll perhaps understand my wish.
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