Monday, May 17, 2021

Soft Focus ~ a consolidated short list of lenses

Here is a short list of soft focus lenses that I recently compiled.  I posted parts of this in several previous articles.  Of course there are many additional options, as can be seen on Jim Galli's old Tonopah site.  So do not take this as a definitive list, OK?

The first section came from browsing the Clarence White edited journal "Pictorial Photography in America" from 1920 thru 1922.  These journals reveal an interesting list of lenses -

  • Aldis f/3 and f/4.5
  • Goerz Portrait Hypar
  • Pinkham and Smith -
    • "Synthetic" for landscape
    • "Visual Quality" for portraiture
    • "Wolf Artistic" slip-on diffusion lens
  • Spencer Portland Pictorial
  • Struss Pictorial
  • Turner Reich Hyperion Diffusion Portrait f/4
  • Wollensak Verito f/4

Post-Pictorialist Era Large Format Soft Focus Optics
  • Cooke PS945 9inch/229mm f/4.5
  • Fuji Fujinon 180mm f/5.6 SF with strainers
  • Fuji Fujinon 250mm f/5.6 SF with strainers
  • Rodenstock Imagon series with strainers
    • 120mm
    • 150mm
    • 170mm
    • 200mm
    • 250mm
    • 300mm
    • 360mm
    • 480mm
  • Yamasaki Congo 150mm f/5.6 SF
  • Yamasaki Congo 200mm f/5.6 SF

120 Medium Format Optics

  • Fuji GX EBC Fujinon GX/GXM SF 190mm f/8 
  • Mamiya 645 Mamiya-Sekor SF C 145mm f/4 
  • Mamiya RB67 150mm f/4 C Variable Soft Focus 
  • Mamiya RZ67 180mm f/4 D/L Variable Soft Focus 
  • Pentax 67 SMC 120mm f/3.5

35mm format glass optics

  • Canon FDn 85mm /f2.8 six elements/four groups
  • Fuji M42 85mm f/4 - four elements/four groups 
  • Kenko 
    • MC 45mm f/4.5 - two elements/one group meniscus 
    • MC 85mm f/2.8 - three elements/three groups
  • Lensbaby 
    • Velvet lens series - 28mm, 56mm, 85mm
  • Minolta 85mm Varisoft f/2.8 - six elements/five groups 
  • Pentax 
    • K-mount 85mm f/2.2 - two elements/one group meniscus
    • SMC F/FA 85/2.8 Soft - five elements/four groups
  • Sima 100mm f/2 Soft Focus - single element(?), no aperture control 
  • Sony A-mount AF 100 F2.8 Soft - eight elements/eight groups
  • Tamron T-mount 70-150 f/2.8 SF type 51A - fourteen elements/ten groups 

35mm format plastic lenses

  • Kiyohara Kogaku 
    • Soft VK50 f/4.5 - single element plastic
    • Soft VK70 f/5 - single element plastic 
  • Lomo Plastic Diana lenses 
  • Yasuhara Momo 100 43mm f/6.4 Soft Focus
 
I think that's it for now.  Maybe a good photography project will keep me occupied after things open up a bit.  
 
Until then I'll likely go rather quiet.  Not much to write.  Not much to share.  Hope enjoyed the stuff that did get posted.

Bye for now.


Lens Stories ~ Pentax 85mm f/2.2 Soft

Saturday, May 15, 2021

Soft Focus ~ Comparing Various Approches

Years ago I shot large format film (4x5inch up to 12x20inch) and I followed Jim Galli's soft focus lens journey. The way he talked about his deep lens mine still cracks me up.  His images from various soft focus lenses piqued my interest and his work became something of an inspiration for me in my own on-again/off-again soft focus lens explorations.

Jim had a wonderfully quirky website which dropped offline for me here in Europe.  Perhaps it's still reachable from the US?  Additionally, I see Jim is no longer part of the Large Format Forum.  I'm not sure what happened.  He'd been on that site for years.

A quick search reminded me that the Way Back Machine archives websites.  Sure enough, they've archived a copy of Jim Galli's site from late 2019.  I'm thrilled.  Now I can go back and look at his work for ideas and understanding of how classic soft focus lenses can function.

Up to this point in my Soft Focus Adventures I have looked at filtration, optically induced softness, and nose oil finger "gunking" a lens or filter.  What I would like to do now is to compare these three approaches side by side by choosing images that I feel best represent the soft focus effect.

Following with a previous format, I would like to first review available optics as I currently understand the market.  Specifically I would like to present a list of 35mm SLR small format soft focus lenses.

35mm format glass optics

  • Canon FDn 85mm /f2.8 six elements/four groups
  • Fuji M42 85mm f/4 - four elements/four groups 
  • Kenko 
    • MC 45mm f/4.5 - two elements/one group meniscus 
    • MC 85mm f/2.8 - three elements/three groups
  • Lensbaby 
    • Velvet lens series - 28mm, 56mm, 85mm
  • Minolta 85mm Varisoft f/2.8 - six elements/five groups 
  • Pentax 
    • K-mount 85mm f/2.2 - two elements/one group meniscus
    • SMC F/FA 85/2.8 Soft - five elements/four groups
  • Sima 100mm f/2 Soft Focus - single element(?), no aperture control 
  • Sony A-mount AF 100 F2.8 Soft - eight elements/eight groups
  • Tamron T-mount 70-150 f/2.8 SF type 51A - fourteen elements/ten groups 

35mm format plastic lenses

  • Kiyohara Kogaku 
    • Soft VK50 f/4.5 - single element plastic
    • Soft VK70 f/5 - single element plastic 
  • Lomo Plastic Diana lenses 
  • Yasuhara Momo 100 43mm f/6.4 Soft Focus

In general I feel the lenses in the above list can be good for re-creating Pictorialist Era images.  The following comparison attempts to share what I mean by this.  I've taken the "best" looking images from four different soft focus approaches and put them side by side for easier review.


Comparison of four different "soft" approaches
 

If you fancy trying your hand at old Pictorialist era images, something from the above list might appeal to you.  And if your experience is anything like mine, it might take a bit of time, patience, and practice to get results that truly please.  Patience seems to be the key in learning the capabilities and limitations of the soft focus practice.

Of the images in the above comparison I find I really like the meniscus lens. I literally stumbled on a configuration that works and see it at "f/2.8" to be pretty nice.  Even at "f/4", this little cheap throw-away lens has some interesting properties to explore.  A downside is it's a little funky to work with as two slim extension tubes are involved in getting the focus range approximately usable.

Just behind the meniscus lens "look", I like the Orton Effect digital softening filter.  This tool is very configurable, and therefore very controllable.  You can set the overlaying Gaussian blur, blend mode, and opacities to just about anything and watch what happens to an image.  In the above example I chose a blend, opacity, blur width that, to my eyes, came somewhat close to duplicating the effects I get from the meniscus lens.

For pure hard-core optical effects, the Pentax 85mm f/2.2 Soft set at f/5.6 is pretty interesting.  I'm not sure if/when/how I will ever come to real terms with the objective.  When I go into the field it feels like a risk to take this lens and be somehow disappointed by the results and to come back with nothing.  So I tend not to work too much with it.  Maybe I should take my own advice and just dive in?

Should you seek some inspiration, check out Eric Lindbloom's "Angels at the Arno."  It is a beautiful book filled with images made using a simple plastic lens (an old Russian Diana, I believe), which might prove the point that wonderful images can be made with just about anything.  

Personally, I'm inspired by the "New Pictorialist" editor Chetworth delGato's Minolta 85mm f/2.8 Varisoft images.  It's too bad those lenses currently cost the moon.  There are many claims these lenses are rare, but I easily see them all over eBay. For a price, of course.

Turning to the David Hamilton/Max Stolzenberg stye images, here is a re-post comparison of soft filters vs nose oil (and Arnica Oil - ick! ack!!).


Soft Image Comparison

It goes without saying that the Nikkor Soft filters have little to no correspondence with Hamilton's nor Stolzenberg's "look."  Similarly, the Arnica Oil is just too much.  This is what I found when trying to work with Vaseline, too.  No matter how lightly and thinly I tried to work with Vaseline or Arnica Oil, the whole plot was always, always, always over-softened and did little more than create a mess.

As with Goldilocks and the Three Bears there seems to be a happy medium.  For me, that is the use of nose oil on a lens or, preferably, a UV Haze filter (to keep the gunk off your pristine glass).  Just take a finger and gently rub the side of your nose and then smear it over the filter (or lens, if you really insist).  It's quick, easy, and looks to mimic rather well the David Hamilton, Max Stolzenberg style.  If you want to soften just the sky/trees, simply touch that part of the filter (or lens, again, if you really insist) that collects light from that part of the scene.  If you don't "get" what I'm saying, one or two practice dabs with an oiled finger will get you pointed in the right direction.

Now, is this the actual technique that David Hamilton and Max Stolzenberg used and use?  I have no way of knowing.  But if it's their effect you're looking for, here is one way of "getting there from here."

As a demonstration of the possibilities of the greasy finger approach, consider an image I accidentally made during the 2016 traversee de Paris summer event for automobiles.  Look at what is going on with the hood area of the Talbot-Lago sportscar.  The Sony 16mm f/2.8 SEL I was using got "dabbed" by my greasy finger shortly after I arrived at la place de la Concorde in Paris.  

I didn't catch the mistake until I was back home and looking at the mysteriously soft images I'd captured.  Inspecting the lens quickly explained what had happened.  To salvage something of the images I took that day with the greased up lens I cranked up the contrast.  The out of the camera RAW are much much softer than this.  Taking that into consideration, have a look at the following image and see how the hood "glows."

 

Talbot Lago ~ la traversee de Paris estivale 2016

Thursday, May 13, 2021

Soft Focus ~ Soft Filters vs Oiled UV Filter

In prior articles I talked a little about a couple of lenses that might be useful in making soft images.  I've also covered the effects of Nikkor Soft #1, #2 analog and Orton Effect digital filters.

Optical effects the Pentax 85mm f/2.2 and DIY meniscus optics seem to align somewhat closely with lenses of the Pictorialist era.  The Nikkor Soft and to some degree the Orton Effect filters to my eye quickly recreate certain soft imaging styles from the 1970's and 1980's.  These filters and lenses seem to have little relation, however, to what the much more current photographers David Hamilton and Max Stolzenberg did and do to create their soft images.

David Hamilton said something very similar to what is currently found on Max Stolzenberg's website.

"...We can assure you that no filters, neither analog nor digital, have been used to shoot this picture! Just a simple analog 35mm camera, a single manual focus lens and the talent of Max ... as well as the beautiful light of south France created this picture..."

Even from a casual glance it is clear the image has been modified to give softness  in the image Max is talking about.

When I look at a partial list of gear that David Hamilton used, I don't see a single soft focus lens.  Additionally, camera bodies generally don't give the kind of softness we are considering.

  • Minolta SRT-101
  • Minolta SRT-303
  • Rokkor 28mm f/2.0
  • Rokkor 35mm f/1.8
  • Rokkor 55mm f/1.7
  • Rokkor 58mm f/1.4 
  • Rokkor 58mm f/1.2
  • Rokkor 135mm f/2.8
  • Rokkor 80-200 f/4.5
  • Polaroid SX70

It's something of a mystery, then.

When I was younger I avidly followed David Hamilton's work.  He was written up in the photography journals of the day, and one of the recurring topics was just how did Hamilton get those effects?

As I wrote earlier, I feel the first broad approach to generating the sense of softness is to shoot into the light.  This was a classic way of wrapping a subject in a soft glow.  I think this, coupled with three other things, is where David Hamilton started.

One of the three things he did was to push Ektachrome film which modified the color response of the film and increased contrast.  The second was to take advantage of internal reflections off the lenses (sometimes called flare) which cut the contrast range.  This may have conveniently offset the increased contrast introduced by the way the film was developed.  The third thing that I feel came into play in Hamilton's images were the print technologies of the day.  

If you compare the printing of his books against his last advertising campaigns perhaps you will see how his published work transitioned from a warm-tone grainy "look" to a crisper, more neutral tone, "cleaner" style as the technologies he used evolved over the years.  I feel some of the original "charm" was for this reason missing from his last works.

Smaller format film naturally came with a certain level of grain.  It was the clumping of silver halide crystals that produced grain.  I contend that one of the effects of grain is to gently distance a viewer from the image.  It takes a step from "reality" toward "non-reality."  Book and magazine published images 40 years ago added a texture that increased the sense of removal from "reality", too.

It was a lesson I learned very early on.  I had the opportunity to look at two original Edward Weston prints.  One was of his famous nautilus shells, and the other was the even more famous peppers.

What I was looking at bore little resemblance to what I'd seen in publications.  The originals were crisp and clear and had very subtle gray tones and not very deep blacks.  It was like looking at the real things. They "felt" very differently to the images that  had been mass reproduced.  Publication technologies had subtly changed my viewing experience.

Shortly afterward I became a black and white print technician at Samy's Cameras photolab on Sunset Blvd.  I learned that Grain was Good in a final print, just as long as it was sharp from edge to edge.  Prints from 35mm and 120 format negatives all took on a certain "distance" between the viewer and the subject due to their obvious grain.

This is why I feel that between the film grain and print technologies that Dave Hamilton's work from the 1970's and 1980's have the "look" and "feel" that they do.

The second broad approach that David Hamilton took, and one that Max Stolzenberg takes is to deliberately soften an image.  This is where the claim of not using soft focus filters becomes something of a curiosity.

Clearly, sections or portions of David's work take on a "glow" that can only come from _something_.  Max's work seems to have adopted this "glowing" _something_ across a much broader range of work.

Yet, if I take a face value Hamilton's and Stolzenberg's claims that they only had a lens, a camera, film, talent, and did _not_ use any filtration, then how did they get the effects they did and do?

Friends and I used to speculate at great length on the topic.  One friend felt David used Vaseline on his lenses.  So we tried it and what a mess!  That couldn't be it.  Another friend heard that he left his lenses uncapped and let dust and dirt accumulate on them over the years.  But that couldn't be it, either, as parts of David's work could be sharp while skies and trees in certain images were softened.  Dirt and grime would lay themselves evenly across a lens surface, wouldn't it?

And so the debate went.  We never were able to come up with a satisfactory explanation.

I thought about all of these things when I came up with the following Late Pandemic Oh I'm So Terribly Bored comparison.  I re-shot a scene using, again, the Nikon Nikkor Soft filters.  Then I shot the scene with an Arnica Oiled-up UV filter.   After cleaning the UV Filter I took my forefinger and transferred a bit of along the side of the nose grease to the filter.  Here are the results.


Soft Image Comparison

 

This time using a Nikon Nikkor-O 35mm f/2 pre-Ai single coated lens and shooting it wide open, I see that without any filtration or other image modifications that the subject is very sharp and that the background dissolves into a glorious softness.  This, I feel, is a good demonstration of what David Hamilton did by shooting into the light, coupled with the lenses of his time.  Yes, I know he used different subject matter, but you get the point.  I hope.

The Nikkor Soft filters lower contrast and softens the entire scene.  I don't find any resemblance between these filtered images and what David and Max create.

Looking at the Arnica Oiled-up UV filter I see exactly the kind of mess that I got 40 years ago with Vaseline.  Even when applied very very thinly, Vaseline and Arnica Oil produce nothing but a mess.  The image is messy.  The filter is messy.  I doubt very much that this is what David and Max use.  Who would want to contend with such a mess?

Lastly, looking at the UV filter dabbed and streaked with side of the nose grease I feel we're finally getting somewhere.  Compare my image with the two photographers images and I think you'll see what I'm pointing to.

A long time ago I learned that human nose greases were the finest oils found in nature.  They are thin and for photographic purposes easy to control.  Nose oils don't have the messy problem that Vaseline and Arnica Oil do, and nose oil is fairly easy to clean off a lens or filter with a bit of eye glass cleaner.

You can apply nose grease where you want, quickly, accurately, and you have a nearly unlimited, and perhaps the best part is it is entirely free zero cost supply of the stuff.  And what noise grease does to subject shot into the light with a wide aperture lens is something quite magical.

Could it be that the "talent" of Max Stolzenberg and David Hamilton is in the carefully strategic placement of a nose oiled finger on the lens?

I'll leave you with this.  Not wanting to mess a perfectly decent optic, I nose oiled a UV Filter.  Take a look at the following and let me know what you think.

 

Ganesh ~ example 1

Tuesday, May 11, 2021

Soft Focus ~ a little meniscus lens

I would like to recount a short tale of stumbling on a potentially interesting soft focus lens solution.  Before I tell the story, however, it might good to show a list of old lenses in this style, to set the foundation for all this Soft Focus Madness, as it were.

In the 19th and into the 20th centuries lenses made for Pictorialists were on offer.  Many of these were designed with soft image qualities when shot wide open and to sharpen things up as the aperture was stopped down.  

Browsing the Clarence White edited journal "Pictorial Photography in America" from 1920 thru 1922 reveals an interesting list of options (take a look toward the back of the journals in the advertising section) -

  • Aldis f/3 and f/4.5
  • Goerz Portrait Hypar
  • Pinkham and Smith -
    • "Synthetic" for landscape
    • "Visual Quality" for portraiture
    • "Wolf Artistic" slip-on diffusion lens
  • Spencer Portland Pictorial
  • Struss Pictorial
  • Turner Reich Hyperion Diffusion Portrait f/4
  • Wollensak Verito f/4

Even after the fall from grace of the Pictorialist style, lens manufactures continued to design and sell soft focus lenses.  I suspect they were made primarily for the Japanese market, but I have no definitive evidence of this.  

Here is a list of some of the post-Pictorialist soft focus lenses that were available for large format film systems.  Many came mounted in modern shutters such as Copal and Compur rendering them thoroughly usable for modern film photography.

  • Cooke PS945 9inch/229mm f/4.5
  • Fuji Fujinon 180mm f/5.6 SF with strainers
  • Fuji Fujinon 250mm f/5.6 SF with strainers
  • Rodenstock Imagon series with strainers
    • 120mm
    • 150mm
    • 170mm
    • 200mm
    • 250mm
    • 300mm
    • 360mm
    • 480mm
  • Yamasaki Congo 150mm f/5.6 SF
  • Yamasaki Congo 200mm f/5.6 SF

In medium format film post-Pictorialist era soft focus lenses minimally we have -

  • Fuji GX EBC Fujinon GX/GXM SF 190mm f/8 
  • Mamiya 645 Mamiya-Sekor SF C 145mm f/4 
  • Mamiya RB67 150mm f/4 C Variable Soft Focus 
  • Mamiya RZ67 180mm f/4 D/L Variable Soft Focus 
  • Pentax 67 SMC 120mm f/3.5

Interesting Note: I know I wrote this in a prior article, but it bears repeating verbatim.  In their guidance literature Kodak suggests pulling the focus on the subject to objects closest to the camera.  Kodak said there was no useful information produced by their Portrait lenses on things in front of the point of focus.  They suggest, too, letting the under-corrected spherical aberration and deep depth of field that comes with it keep things apparently in focus behind the nearest point focused on.  This is something to keep in mind when shooting any under-corrected spherical aberration behind the point of focus lens.

Since I no longer shoot film and have moved completely to digital with small sensors I've been interested in exploring what might be available for smaller formats.  In a prior article I wrote about the Pentax 85mm f/2.2 Soft.  It was designed and built to give an enormous amount of under-corrected spherical aberration behind the point of focus.

For me, working with the Pentax lens a little difficult.  I haven't found many subjects nor lighting situations that react well to the Pentax' over the top level of softness.  I looked for a less dramatic solution.

Before I could spend more money on exploring some of the old manual focus 35mm SLR soft focus option, a thought occurred to me that I could attempt to follow Jim Galli's example and disassemble a few lenses and try different lens element combinations.

Jim is well known in America's large format film community for his work with soft focus lenses.  Until very recently he had a website filled with images that illustrated soft focus optical effects from Pictorialist Era lenses.  And he didn't stop there.  One of the last posts I read of his talked about how he disassembled an old Schneider Symmar and used one of the lens elements to make photos.  The results were compelling.  Unfortunately his website appears to be off-line.  I can't reach it any longer from Europe.

Digging through my own box full of cast-off, cast-away lenses I choose a classic Plasmat design 6 element 4 group 50mm lens.  These are as common as dirt.  Everyone who was anyone manufactured their own versions of the original "Nifty-Fifty" (as Current Cool Cats like to refer to them as) for perhaps every 35mm SLR ever made.

Just to see what might happen, I firmly grasped the poor old lens and unscrewed the front element set, fettled a correct distance to the sensor plane by adding a few short extension tubes, adapted it to a Sony A7, et voila! a behind the aperture three element two group "meniscus lens."  And it works!!  Have a look.

 

Nikon Nikkor 85mm f/1.8, Meniscus approx 60mm Soft Comparison

 

Classic Pictorialist lens image properties are clearly on display.  Images are soft around subject/object edges wide open.  There is increasing sharpness across the scene as the aperture is stopped down.  Using the aperture in this way I can control the amount of overall softness of an image.  

To me, this lens begins to strike a decent balance between the level of softness the lens adds and underlying image sharpness.  I find it crazy that I was able to hit upon this solution straight away at my first attempt.  It was almost too easy.  

Instantly, there is another viable optic for being able to re-create the early Pictorialist image qualities using more current small format tools.

Sunday, May 09, 2021

Soft Focus ~ Pentax 85mm f/2.2 in Nikon F-mount

Previously I had a quick look at how soft focus filters effect an image, and now it's time I had a comparative look at optical softening effects.

In the 19th and into the 20th centuries lenses made for Pictorialists were on offer.  Many of these had distinctly soft image qualities when shot wide open.  Browsing the Clarence White edited journal "Pictorial Photography in America" from 1920 thru 1922 reveals an interesting list of options, including -

  • Aldis f/3 and f/4.5
  • Goerz Portrait Hypar
  • Pinkham and Smith -
    • "Synthetic" for landscape
    • "Visual Quality" for portraiture
    • "Wolf Artistic" slip-on diffusion lens
  • Spencer Portland Pictorial
  • Struss Pictorial
  • Turner Reich Hyperion Diffusion Portrait f/4
  • Wollensak Verito f/4

There were, of course, other "Pictorialist" lenses manufactured over the years, including the color corrected Kodak Portrait lens series. 

Interesting Note: In their guidance literature Kodak suggests pulling the focus on the subject to objects closest to the camera.  Kodak said there was no useful information produced by their Portrait lenses on things in front of the point of focus.  They suggest, too, letting the under-corrected spherical aberration and deep depth of field that comes with it keep things apparently in focus behind the nearest point focused on.  This is something to keep in mind when shooting any under-corrected spherical aberration behind the point of focus lens.

More recently, small camera manufacturers have sold various "soft focus" lenses.  I have a Pentax 85mm f/2.2 Soft in a Nikon F-mount.  It's the only one I've ever seen configured this way.  All the other f/2.2 Soft lenses I've seen come in Pentax' K-mount.  In any event, this is the lens I would like to consider here.

The Pentax 85mm f/2.2 is a two element in front of the aperture meniscus lens.  From prior use I know how strong the under-corrected spherical aberration is behind the point of focus from f/2.2 through to f/4.  The effect is so strong that it is easily seen even on a rather small LC display.

Until I talked with a friend, I thought the super-strong softness of the Pentax was "just the way things were."  He pointed out that at f/5.6 Pentax Soft images just started to "look good."  His own work is much more subtle than mine has been up to now.  He doesn't shoot for softness, he shoots to get the highlights to "glow", which is a rather different thing.  The more of his images I see, the more I'm convinced his approach may be one of the best uses of soft focus lenses of any vintage and of any format, from large film to small APS-C digital sensors.

This led me to consider how the Pentax 85mm f/2.2 behaved down its aperture range.  The following comparison shows the Nikon Nikkor 85mm f/1.8 K shot into the light wide open at f/1.8.  Then I show the Pentax 85mm f/2.2 at each of its marked apertures.

 

Nikon Nikkor 85mm f/1.8, Pentax 85mm f/2.2 Soft Comparison

 

As we can see, at f/2.2 the intense softness of the Pentax lens just about knocks you over.  F/2.8 isn't much different.  The level of softness is still very high.  I'm not aware of a Pictorialist era optic that produced this much under-corrected spherical aberration behind the point of focus, though I've seen images taken with Wollensak Verito lenses shot wide open where the softness is somewhat intense.

By f/5.6 the Pentax 35mm SLR lens is, indeed, "just starting" to look like my friends preferred rendition.  The highlights start to "glow" while the underlying image begins to sharpen up.  In fact, it has something of the Nikkor #2 Soft filter image effect in the highlights, except that the Pentax optics are still doing things to the edges of objects that filters would never do.

One of the other curious things about the lens is that it only stops down to f/5.6.  It goes no further.  So I am tempted to make a couple Waterhouse-like aperture disks to lay against the Pentax' aperture blades to see how the lens performs at f/8 and f/11.  It could be an interesting experiment to see if I can get the corners to clean up a bit more while retaining the highlight "glow" that seems on promise.

Saturday, May 08, 2021

Soft Focus ~ filters and software

I'm used to being able to evaluate optical performance based on the number of lines per mm something resolves in a 6:1 contrast ratio scene (ie: how "sharp" a lens is).  I'm also used to being able to think about optical contrast performance based on reading Modulation Transfer Functions (ie: how much contrast a lens can pass through to the light sensitive material).  I think we're all pretty good at understanding chromatic aberration, field curvature, and such things.  

Out of focus rendition is a topic that gets, for me, a little subjective.  Though many people talk about "bokeh" and seem to understand each other pretty well.  But by the time we get to talking about Soft Focus lenses and filter, I think we find ourselves firmly into subjective terminology territory.

How do we talk about Soft Focus photography? As several friends have pointed out over the years, we really don't have a language for talking about nor evaluating image "softness." 

Part of the problem, I feel, has to do with history and the influence of certain West Coast photographers and American critics on the global conversation of what is and is not acceptable photography.  For whatever reasons, after passing through a period of Pictorialism it was collectively agreed that "sharp" is correct and everything else (soft focus lenses, filters, and image manipulations) is not.

Technically, part of the problem is image viewing size changes what we as viewers might find "pleasing."  It seems that too large a viewing size can soften a scene up to and beyond the limits of "pleasing."  Yet, a smaller viewing size of the same image can be found to be "pleasing."  Whatever the squishy, subjective, and imprecise word "pleasing" means.

I've thought about these things off and on for years.  In our current late-pandemic time I've taken up once again a quest to learn a bit more about soft focus images and how they are made.  Yes, Good Sir Knight, it may be a Worthy Quest.  Or not.  I'll see how things turn out after a few more articles on the subject.

I will start by considering something I felt would be obvious.  Filters, both analog and digital.  Filters are an inexpensive and easy way of modifying a scene when using just about any lens.

If you like and study his images, there are three things that come into play that contribute to Hamilton's signature style "softness."  Shooting against the light is one such thing.  We can see this from his earliest publications.  Along with at least one image manipulation (which we will consider in a future article) Max Stolzenberg  nearly exclusively shooting against the light.  If we look back to the earlier Pictorialists, they too used to sometimes shoot against the light.

Following their example I chose a scene that deliberately shoots against the light.  No reflected fill is added and the foreground objects are "wrapped" in delicate light.  The exposure is +1ev in an attempt to capture shadow detail against a very bright background scrim.

Technically, the following image comparison used a Sony A7 and a Nikon Nikkor 85mm f/1.8 K.  I photographed the scene without and with filtration.  The filters were a Nikkor #1 and a Nikkor #2 Soft.  Then I illustrate the use of a digital filter and it's effect on the unfiltered starting image.  The digital technique is called the "Orton Effect."

 

Nikon Nikkor 85mm f/1.8 K Soft Comparison

Thoughts -

 Wide open, the Nikon Nikkor 85mm f/1.8 H, HC, and K lenses (seemingly all versions have the very same optical implementation) are brilliant for the way they sharp from wide open and give a subtly beautiful under-correct for spherical aberration behind the point of focus.  I really enjoy working with this lens.

The Nikon Nikkor Soft #1 and #2 filters give a distinctive 1970's "look" to the scene.  Images are generally soft all over and highlights can glow.  With few exceptions, I don't yet see a compelling correspondence between filtration and early Pictorialist works.  This makes sense to me as Pictorialists used specially designed optics to achieve their unique style of "softness" and I haven't read where they used filtration to achieve the effects they did.  

Compared with what we see from David Hamilton's work neither can I see where there is a good correspondence between his image "look" and filtration.  Compared with Max Stolzenberg's work, the #2 Nikkor Soft comes closest to achieving Max's "style", but to my eyes it is not an exact match.

Considering the "Orton Effect" digital softening approach I don't see a strong correlation between the digital filter and the images of David Hamilton nor Max Stolzenberg.  However, I see where a careful crafts-person could begin to emulate some of the Pictorialist era "styles."  Of course this approach wasn't available to Pictorialists, but the potential to digitally recreate the "feeling" of the earlier era could be there. 

In the next article I will begin to consider Pictorialist style optical "softness" in image making.


Wednesday, May 05, 2021

Soft Focus ~ down yet another rabbit hole

The past year of confinements, restricted movement, and closures of nearly everything I enjoy (museums, motor events, restaurants, cafes, gardens, visits with friends, travel outside the country, etc) has given me far too much time to ponder various photography topics.  I would much rather be out making images, but for obvious pandemic reasons this clearly is not possible.

For seemingly ever I've been interested in camera system resolution.  From large format optics to current small format optics.  I've looked at hundreds and hundreds of systems.  I've spent years and years poking and prodding at this to finally understand that, in general, light sensitive materials (analog film, digital sensors) limit resolution.  With very few exceptions I've not met a "bad" lens that couldn't out-resolve the light sensitive materials.

Then, just a couple years ago I had a look at the transition from in focus to out of focus.  This was really quite interesting.  I learned that the best lens designers work hard to implement lenses that are "pleasing" in just this one narrow area of lens design.  Which led to my learning about how under-corrected spherical aberrations behind the point of focus helps create a softness and delicateness in an image that is highly regarded, particulary in Japan.

From there it was a very short jump to briefly looking at soft focus lenses.  The Pentax 85mm f/2.2 Soft was a somewhat strange lens to me.  Along with the obvious optical properies of "softness", the Pentax Soft has curiously deep depth of field, even shot wide open.  It turns out that this is one of the side effects of lenses designed with a large amount of under-corrected spherical aberrations behind the point of focus.

The Pentax Soft seems to fly in the face of current lens design.  Today it seems that photography is nothing if not needle sharp in rendition.  Yet, there used to be a significant movement in photography that accepted and included images made with soft focus lenses.  Pictorialist photographers turned out some very fine work from the late 19th to well into the 20th centuries.  I enjoy looking at images that span time from Clarence White to William Mortensen.

Thinking of this kind of photography I recalled the soft works of David Hamilton.  His images had an important presence in southern California where I lived during the 1970's and 1980's.  He seemed to use several different techniques for creating his images.  While trying to work out his various techniques I was led to a current day photographer by the name of Max Stolzenberg.

Max makes the claim that "... We can assure you that no filters, neither analog nor digital, have been used to shoot this picture! ..."  Even at a glance the image he refers to appears to be modified from what one would expect out of a camera system, regardless of date of manufacture.

If I take Max at his word, I am immediately presented a mystery.  How does he get his soft effect if he doesn't use a filter?  And, by extension, how did David Hamilton get the soft effects he did?

This series of "Soft Focus ~ ..." articles will explore some of the possibilities for how soft focus image can be created.  With luck I may come closer to technically understanding how to recreate the styles of David Hamilton, Clarence White, and perhaps even Max Stolzenberg.

Paris ~ Fall 2020

Monday, May 03, 2021

Knowledge Test ~ Good Luck!

I thought it'd be fun to see if anyone can figure this out.  It's a game of sorts.  Which lens took which photo?

Have a look at this and tell me what you see and what you think.  The images on the right are of the entire scene downsized to 1500 pixels.  The images on the left are 100 percent crops of the fish in the images on the right.  

It won't matter in this test, but I used a very low mileage Sony A7 (first generation) camera with the ISO set to 64, and strapped it to a very sturdy tripod.

 

Brain Twister ~ Mystery Lens Comparison

 

I deliberately chose two lenses of the same focal length and which showed differences in image rendition under test.

To help things along, I'll give a few hints. 

The setup was chosen pointing toward bright, soft light so as to express a full range of tones with plenty of detail in the shadows and specular highlights bouncing off unpolished metal.

One lens was designed in the very early 1960's and the other lens is quite current.  Both derive from the same base optical layout.   

One lens is single coated and the other is multi-coated.

One has a tiny bit of fungus around the very outer edges of the forward element and the other is clean and clear.  

Both RAW images were exposed and processed with exactly the same parameters on a Linux system using RawTherapee.  

Lastly, one lens was designed with over-corrected spherical aberration behind the point of focus and the other was designed with under-corrected spherical aberration behind the point of focus.

NOTE: I think this illustrates that the optical layout (ie: Tessar, Planar, etc) has little to do with rendition.  It's the math used on each and every surface in any design that determines the curve/shape of the lens that matters. 

Still, this is difficult, isn't it?

I've looked at the two images for quite awhile and know where the obvious differences are.  Of course knowing the answers helps me know where to look.

Yet this raises, for me, one simple question: Are the differences important enough to choose one lens over the other?

Last thing: If you correctly tell me just one lens, I'll buy you a couple beers at my favorite pub after the 19th of May, 2021 when things start to re-open here in Paris.