Tuesday, December 23, 2025

Chasing "softness" in small formats ~ troisieme part ~ Showing My Homework

I recently wrote a blog entry where I talked about lenses that seem to fill the gap between Full Blown Soft Focus for 35mm format and "normal" sharp/clinical lenses.  What I shared were mainly Lens Porn, er, sorry, Portraits illustrations because I find these cheap lenses beautiful to take photos of.  I did not share my homework, even though I wrote at length about differences between the optics.  This blog entry corrects this omission.

Keep in mind that the trick to these first element focusing lenses is that the greatest optical imperfection effect is generally found in subjects closer/closest to the camera.  Of course it depends on lens design, but this is the tendency I've seen thus far.

Often these first element focusing lenses for 35mm format that are easily adaptable to digital derive from or are implementations of the early Cooke Triplet.  The design is two positive elements on each end with one negative element in the middle.  This is pretty simple, easy to manufacture, and can be very low cost.  Lenses on the used market can be nearly Give Away cheap.  I recently picked up a digital adaptable first element focusing Cooke triplet design lens for less than 9Euro.

Homework ~

Scene setup - Steinheil Auto-Cassaron 50mm f/2.8 at f/4 

Steinheil Auto-Cassaron
50mm f/2.8 at f/4
processed using a film sim
that I like just to see how
the low contrast of the lens
might play out against a
contrast-inducing LUT

Point of Focus Rendering ~ Steinheil, ISCO, Ricoh, Sony

 

Comments ~ (borrowed in large part from an earlier blog post)

In reverse order, from bottom to top... 

Ricoh 55mm f/2.2 Riconar - Optical imperfections galore - the kinds of imperfections vary depending on subject distance.  While I don't show this here, it's easily seems comparing close to distance focused subject at f/2.2 and f/4.  It delivers rather decent contrast, actually.  

Interesting highlight "glow" effects.  Controllable by aperture and subject distance, which is potentially useful.  One would have to map out distance/aperture to know which settings to use.  

f/11 can make a pretty sharp image of distant subjects.  Regarding the effects I'm going after, between f/2.2 and f/5.6 the optical imperfections at all distances can play well toward generating a decent "Pictorialist" style enlarged to "normal" viewing size/distance.

ISOC Iscotar 50mm f/2.8 - Optical imperfects somewhere between the Ricoh and Steinheil.  Good contrast.  

Interesting highlight "glow" effects.  Controllable, as with the Ricoh, by aperture and subject distance.  f/8 and f/11 can make a decently sharp image at greater subject distances if desired.  

Between f/2.8 and f/5.6 the optical imperfections can play well toward generating a decent "Pictorialist" style enlarged to "normal" viewing size/distance.  I think of the ISCO as a slightly more rational German Riconar.

Steinheil Auto-Cassaron 50mm f/2.8 - Subtle optical imperfections, spherical aberration at all apertures and all subject distances. Low contrast.    Using the "haze" removal control during processing cleans up a scene, but why use it if I'm looking for "soft focus?"  Have I mentioned this is a low contrast lens?  There must be an echo in here.  Either that or it's strongly evident from looking at the results.

To me this lens is like using a Heliar large format lens from Voigtlander.  Back in the day I owned two of these, a 15cm and 21cm f/4.5, both in Compound shutter.  These lenses had similar underlying detail to what I see with the 50mm.  Missing the rendering of those old lenses I'm happy to discover the Steinheil.  The more I stare at Steinheil images the more I wonder if this isn't a basic trait to how Steinheil designed their optics?  As with the Heliars I find this a really interesting way to make an image.  There seems to me to be a lot of potential for processing unique small format digital images.  I have at least one more Steinheil optic coming to try to confirm/deny this line of thinking.

As the lens is stopped down the underlying detail begins to extend from the center toward the edges of the field.  The effect is common to how triplets behave and I saw this most particularly in a Meyer Domiplan 50mm I once had.  It was sharper from wide open than any Zeiss Tessar I ever saw (and I had more than a few of these over the years).  The ISCO behaves this way too.  That is, wide open the center of the field can be surprisingly sharp and the mid to edge of the field showing subtle/not-so-subtle optical defects of various kinds.  These clean up as the aperture is stopped down and the sharpness spreads out.

With my Auto-Cassaron it's as if the lens designers kept/allowed the spherical aberration to gain consistency in other areas of optical design.  Resolution, field distortion, chromatic aberration and coma are better controlled than in the Ricoh and ISCO.  While more subtle than many large format soft focus lenses from Back in the Day, the Steinheil for small format might make for a decent "Pictorialist" style lens where image viewing sizes can vary depending on the electronic display system. 

Tryptich ~ 2025 

Images made with a Steinheil
Auto-Cassaron 50mm f/2.8 at f/2.8 or f/4 

Sunday, December 21, 2025

Chasing "softness" in small formats ~ deuxieme part

I'm chasing pixies again.  Or still.  Or some little "corner case" like that.

The topic of soft focus photography on small formats is interesting to me.  I'd like to reliably replicate the "look" and "feel" of Photo Secessionist/Pictorialist era prints in digital.  This means looking for a way to get "just the right amount of softness" in an image using digital sensors.

Musée Rodin de Meudon ~ 2025 

Sony A7RII
Ricoh Riconar 55mm f/2.2 @f/2.8 

All of the made for purpose adaptable to digital 35mm SLR Soft Focus lenses I've looked give results that are too "strong."  That is, the level of veiling "softness" (spherical aberration) does not stand up to looking at an image at "normal" viewing distances.

I'm convinced that soft focus lenses from the late 1800's/early 1900's "work" because they were made by contact printing and lens designers could allow "just the right amount" of optical imperfections to be pleasing to viewers.  4x5 inch.  5x7 inch.  Whole plate.  8x10 inch.  Any attempt to enlarge a negative made with a special purpose soft focus lens meets with disaster.  So contact printing it was.  Period.

Adaptable 35mm/Full Frame Soft Focus lenses to my way of thinking fail where large format film lenses could succeed.  Fujifilm 85mm f/4 SF.  Pentax 85mm f/2.2 and f/2.8.  Minolta 85mm f/4 Varisoft.  Canon 135mm SF.  These lenses are nearly impossible to work with if trying to come close to what the original Pictorialists were able to create. 

Though, it must be said, I have it on good PhD thesis-level on this topic authority that Pictorialists in the 1970's and 1980's were able to successfully use the Minolta Varisoft with the softness ring set between "0" and "1" (ie: very very gentle application of spherical aberration).  The photographer had to know what they were doing.

Looking at pixies, odd pieces of fluff, and photographic lens histories I found that something potentially useful.   Wollensak's Velostigmat Series II tessar formula is a normally sharp lens that came with soft focus capability.  The soft focus effect is achieved by unscrewing the first element moving it away from the two optical groups placed on either side of the aperture.  By extending the distance between the first and second element a pleasing soft focus effect is achievable.

This got me to thinking. Perhaps pixies do exist, in spite of the lack of empirical evidence.

What if I took a cheap Soviet tessar and extended the distance between the first and second elements?  Would the soft focus effect seen in large format film photography be achievable in smaller formats?  Perhaps even in some controllable or easily understood manner?

Being occupied with the Rigors of Retirement, time passed and I casually let the subject rest.

One day I was thumbing through a Pentax on-line forum and discovered that the Ricoh 55mm f/2.2 Riconar is a first element focuser.  It's not a tessar, nor a Cooke triplet.  It's a four element air space design of some kind, of which I've never seen the likes of before.  So I thought I'd give it a try as they are nicely inexpensive.  What a strange and interesting lens the Ricoh turned out to be. 

I then learned the Germans made a LOT of Cooke triplet first element focusing lenses... because they were cheap... because they are easy to manufacture... and because they were (barely?) sufficient to the task.  The first element has, in concept, enough power to control but not contain many of the optical imperfections down stream.  

Enter a Steinheil Auto-Cassaron 50mm f/2.8 Cooke triplet.  Such a beautiful lens.  Oh my. My many thanks to Bonzo Din or turning me onto this one.

Enter an ISCO Iscotar 50mm f/2.8 Cooke triplet. Such a gorgeous lens.  Oh boy.

Avoiding the Meyer Domiplan 50mm f/2.8.  Been there.  Done that.  Soap bubble ain't my thang.  

Making a habit of avoiding cheap lenses all my life colored my sense of what is possible.  Cheap lenses are bad lenses, right?  The trick question is in which ways is a lens "bad?"  Mike Johnson from Darkroom Magazine/The Online Photographer said something to the effect that all lenses have their gifts.  And so it is with first element focusing triplets and quadruplets.  I've found they can provide a controllable sense of softness, particularly for subjects nearer to the camera than not.   There live the pixies I've been searching for.


Group Photo ~ Steinheil, Ricoh, ISCO 

Status: Here's what I've experienced using these lenses thus far.

Ricoh 55mm f/2.2 Riconar - Optical imperfections galore - the kinds of imperfections vary depending on subject distance. Decent contrast.  Interesting highlight "glow" effects.  Controllable by aperture and subject distance.  f/11 can make a fairly sharp image of distant subjects.  Between f/2.2 and f/5.6 the optical imperfections at all distances can play well toward generating a decent "Pictorialist" style enlarged to "normal" viewing size/distance.

Ricoh Riconar 55mm f/2.2 

Steinheil Auto-Cassaron 50mm f/2.8 - Subtle optical imperfections, spherical aberration at all apertures and all subject distances. Low contrast.    Using the "haze" removal control during processing cleans up a scene, but why use it if I'm looking for "soft focus?"  

This lens is like using a Heliar large format lens from Voigtlander.  Back in the day I owned two of these, a 15cm and 21cm f/4.5, both in Compound shutter.  These lenses had similar underlying detail to what I see with the 50mm.  Missing the rendering of those old lenses I'm happy to discover the Steinheil.

As the Auto-Cassaron is stopped down the underlying detail begins to extend toward the edges of the field.  The effect is really interesting to see.  It's as if the lens designers kept the spherical aberration to gain consistency in other areas of optical design, such as resolution, field distortion, chromatic aberration and coma.  The Steinheil obviously makes for a decent "Pictorialist" style lens for small formats, though of a different characteristics compared to the Ricoh. 

Steinheil Auto-Cassaron 50mm f/2.8 

ISOC Iscotar 50mm f/2.8 - Optical imperfects somewhere between the Ricoh and Steinheil.  Good contrast.  Interesting highlight "glow" effects.  Controllable, as with the Ricoh, by aperture and subject distance.  f/8 and f/11 can make a decently sharp image at greater subject distances if needed.  Between f/2.8 and f/4.5 the optical imperfections can play well toward generating a decent "Pictorialist" style enlarged to "normal" viewing size/distance.  I think of the ISCO as a slightly more rational German Riconar.

ISCO Isconar 50mm f/2.8 

 

Are there more German first element focusing triplets in my future?  Stay tuned.  

Wednesday, December 17, 2025

Digital Zone System ~ Sony A6300 in-camera jpg generation

I continue to pick at a question about where Sony places tone values for its in-camera jpg generated images.  My question this time is how manufacturer default settings record luminance.

In the Sony BIONZ and BIONZ X universe I've noted that Creative Style Black and White jpgs at its out of the box manufacturer default setting clips the shadow areas hard compared to sensor RAW.  The Creative Style BW range of tone expression is compressed into a narrow range.  It's a very steep curve into darkness.

It's this tonal compression that sent me in search of ways of expanding the in-camera generated Black and White jpg tonal range and found using DRO at specific values useful.  DRO2 or DRO3 raise the shadow values in a controlled way, though the bottom of the tonal range is still -5EV/Zone 0.  By comparison, RAW files using very early NEX reach pure black at -7EV and later sensors from A6000 onward reach pure black at -8EV or -9EV.

That's on the stills Creative Style side of the Sony systems I have.  

On the video side in the BIONZ X systems I have there are additional imaging functions under the heading of Picture Profile.  I originally thought these were an extension of Creative Style.  Only recently did it occur to me to confirm/deny this.

Et voila! here I am with ever more words and illustrations of what I've found. 

For this post I share the Sister of the Mother of All Digital Zone System Charts for a Sony A6300 that I have.  Illustrating the effects of parameter changes (contrast, knee, etc.) are not covered here.  That would be the Mother of All Digital Zone System Charts had I taken the time to do all that.  However, I feel a pretty clear understanding of Sony is doing can be developed.  Additional details and refinements are left to the reader to pursue.

As I leap off into the deep end of things I should note that the process used in all my Digital Zone System work is easily implemented on all non-Sony systems.  All this is simply noting how cameras place luminance values given the various imaging functions a manufacturer offers.  In fact, I've spot checked this entire approach against Panasonic Lumix S9 and Fuji GFX100RF systems and found the basis of understanding holds true across at least three manufacturers cameras.

Setup ~

  • RAW processed 1EV separation values as reference
  • In-camera generated 1EV separation jpgs for...
    • Creative Style Black and White with settings at manufacturer default
    • Picture Profiles selecting...
      • Gamma
      • Color Mode Black and White
      • All other settings at manufacturer default for each Profile

Results ~

SonyA6300 in-camera jpg Zone System Chart

 

Comments ~

Looking at the result in columns from left to right...

RAW 0EV -  This is my tone value reference.  Though not shown here, -8EV is pure black.  1EV tone separation is achieved from -8EV to +2EV.  From +2EV to +4EV is the "shoulder" of the curve (ala film).  Film stopped being 1EV separated at -2EV, which explains why digital imaging systems offer a TON more shadow detail than film when 0EV (the standard) is set at Zone 5.

Creative Style Black and White - Pure black is -4EV Zone 1.  Pure white is +4EV.  Zones 4 through 1 show a steep drop in tone compared to the RAW reference.  Visually, images made using this setting are contrasty with what I would call "inky" blacks.

Sills - The first Picture Profile "style" I come to shows what appears to me to be a very similar result to Creative Style Black and White.

Movie - This Picture Profile is the first illustration I come to of Sony moving tonal values compared with Creative Style Black and White and Picture Profile Stills.  Notably, the shadow values are "opening up" with Zone 0 being properly pure black.  This setting behaves similarly to what Creative Style with DRO enabled can do.  If there was nothing further, at its default setting I feel Picture Profile Movie could be a satisfactory in-camera jpg imager. 

Cine 1 - Now we're cooking with gas.  Tonal values are expressed through EV -6 Zone -1, though the highlights are a little "hot" with how close +3EV is to pure white.  To correct for the highlights being "hot", under-exposing by -0.3EV moves the entire curve appropriately (to more closely match the Zone System definition).  For the way I was trained to "see" BW images from all the way back into the Film Days I could stop right here.  

A very useful BW Sony recipe:

  • Picture Profile Gamma Cine 1
  • Color Mode Black and White
  • -0.3EV
  • All other Picture Profile Cine 1 settings factory defaults

Cine 2 - Wackiness ensues.  Highlights are strongly compressed.  Perhaps if someone is "color grading" video, having tone value in the highlights could be interesting.  For BW stills work?  I'm not so sure.  YMWV.

Cine 3 - Hah!  Another potentially useful manufacture default Picture Profile.  This is very similar to Cine 1, except for the exposure as the tones are expressed.  There's no need to -0.3EV with this setting.  It seems usable straight out of the box: 

  • Picture Profile Gamma Cine 3
  • Color Mode Black and White
  • All other Picture Profile Cine 1 settings factory defaults

Cine 4 - This Picture Profile setting sets -5EV as pure black, where Cine 1 and Cine 3 set pure black at -6EV.  Said another way, Cine 4 appears to be using less of the native dynamic range of the sensor that Cine 1 and 3.  Depending on the environment a person shoots in, this could be sufficient as an out of the box Color Mode BW setting.

SLog 2 - All Holy Hell breaks loose and the FULL dynamic range of the sensor is expressed. +4EV down through -8EV have tone.  Images using SLog 2 "look" flat.  Referencing back to how my eyes were trained on film prints, SLog 2 "feels un-natural."  It's a strange sensation.

Of course SLog 2 is meant for video work and the output of this setting is expected to be color graded after the fact.  That's where the Cool Kids get to apply their oh so special color LUTs to achieve certain "cinematic effects."

For BW stills work I envision this setting being useful in extremely high contrast situations, then off-loading a jpg from the camera to a mobile device for processing where an 8bit color space is all that's available.  Otherwise we'd just shot RAW and process it in a 16 or 32 bit color space, right? 

SLog 3 - Ack!  Here we go again with crushed highlights.  I see zero value in this setting for BW stills work. 

Saturday, December 13, 2025

Chasing "softness" in small formats...

I was rather excited when stumbling upon the Ricoh Riconar 55mm f/2.2.  It's a soft focus lens in cheap kit lens drag and I thought I'd skinned a Fat Calf.  

I've been looking for a lens with gentle optical incorrections.  The made to purpose "soft focus" lenses for Minolta, Pentax, Canon, Leica, etc, etc, etc, are all way too soft for me.  The effect doesn't whisper it's presence, it hits me over the head with a hammer and announces "I am a Soft Fekk'n Focus Lens, fer Gawds! sake!!"  The Ricoh, on the other hand, appears to offer a controllable level of softness, much like early large format portrait and pictorialist lenses.

 

Steinheil 50mm f/2.8 Auto-Cassaron 

 

Having struck gold once, the experience motivated me to look for other old first optical element/group focusing lenses for 35mm format cameras.

Bonzo Din shared the fact the a German made Steinheil comes with a front element focusing lens.  It's called the Steinheil 50mm f/2.8 Auto-Cassaron.  Oh boy! quick as a bunny I found and purchased one.  The aperture and focusing ring were sticky, so I disassembled the simple lens as far as I could, applied denatured ETOH to everything trying to unbind the bound bits (kinky! you say).  Cleaned and lubed the focusing threads.  The Steinheil became usable.

 

Steinheil 50mm f/2.8 Auto-Cassaron 

 

What I found is The lens is an implementation of the classic Cooke triplet.  This Steinheil is indeed first element focusing.  The second and third elements are fixed, one on each side of the aperture.  The Steinheil's aperture control mechanism is as simple as can be.  Lens coatings are applied only to the outer surfaces front and back.  Surfaces on the inside of the lens are uncoated.   The lens is obviously designed for lowest cost manufacturing, just like the Ricoh 55mm f/2.2 Riconar.  Cheap, cheap, cheap.

Once my aging mind was coming unstuck, I remembered that Saint Ansel used a Turner Reich 12-1/4" triple convertible as well as a Cooke 12-1/4" series XV triple convertible early on.  I've inspected prints made from negatives exposed using those lenses and the results are quite good. 

 

Steinheil 50mm f/2.8 Auto-Cassaron 

 

In use I've found the softness generated to by the Steinheil to be "gentler" than the Ricoh's.  The German lens is very well behaved across the field.  The extreme edges can be a little soft until stopped way down, but nothing compared with the Ricoh.  The field is as flat as can be.

My tail was wagging like one on a medium sized dog.

Trying to better understand what I was looking at, I found I've forgotten more than a fair bit of triple element three group history.  Wikipedia to the rescue.  Cooke designed the earliest examples of the triplet. See - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooke_triplet

Now I was really happy.  I felt I'd stumbled upon something.  Something secret.  Something delicious.  Something...

Tryptich ~ 2025 

Except.  Except.  Except.  I didn't.  All too often late to the party, I find everyone who's anyone already knows about three element three group Cooke design lenses for small formats.   

It turns out the Germans, French, English, and Americans were cranking out Cooke triplets by the boats load! for smaller format 620, 120, and 35mm cameras.  The Germans continued this well and deep into the 35mm SLR times (1950's through 1980's).

Ricoh's 55mm that I was first smitten with is actually a four element four group lens.  So I'll not count it in the list that follows.  Simply remember it's cheap, widely available, and can be fun for use in soft focus work.

From Germany, I see the following Pentax M42 thread mount Cooke lenses - 

  • E. Ludwig Meritar 50mm f/2.9 - East Germany
  • ISCO Göttingen Iscotar 50 mm f/2.8 - Edixa M42 spec
  • ISCO Göttingen Iscovitar 50 mm f/2.8 - Pracktica/Pentax M42 spec
  • Meyer-Optik Görlitz Domiplan 50mm f/2.8 <- Soap Bubble Bokeh!!!  Ick.  Ack.
  • Steinheil 50mm f/2.8 Auto-Cassaron

Browsing old catalogs shows these lenses were available under different model namings and different mounts.  Some lenses outside the M42 list above are more easily adaptable than others and I'm sure anyone with a keen interest in such things can quickly sort out what to do and which lenses merit attention.

I may post more on the topic after an ISCO arrives. 

Sunday, November 23, 2025

Black and White digital filters in image processing...

I'm working up to a critique that I'll post at some point in the (hopefully) not too distant future.  To get there from here I want to cover Black and White digital filters in image processing.

The topic arose in my mind when musing over a digital recipe/filter that would accurately/correctly match the spectral response curve of early silver nitrate light sensitive materials, including but certainly not limited to wet-plate collodion.

I found a digital filter that I'm very happy with and for the sake of brevity I'll dispense with the steps I took to the final form.  If anyone wants the complete details, ask.

Here's the starting image.  Top and bottom are grayscale step wedges that I developed for the Digital Zone System I've worked on.  The center of the image is a simple color chip chart.   Examples were processed using RawTherapee.

Starting point -

Base Filter Chart 

Simple color desaturation - 

RawTherapee Simple DeSaturation Filter Chart

Relative RGB channel mix -

RawTherapee Channel Mix Relative RGB Filter Chart

Luminance human perception modeling - 

RawTherapee Luminance Filter Chart

Relative RGB channel mix "Ortho" filter -

RawTherapee Channel Mix Orthochromatic Filter Chart

Silver Nitrate relative RGB channel mix Red=0 Green=10 Blue=90 filter - 

RawTherapee My Ortho Channel Mix Relative RGB Red=0 Green=10 Blue=90 Filter Chart

Comments -

Short answer:  

Digital filters for Black and White color conversions seem to do what they're supposed to.

Long answer:  

Simple désaturation sucks. Colors don't translate to the tonality my eyes would expect to see.  Yet this is EXACTLY what old Black and White film does.  Sure, the ends of the color spectrum might be clipped differently on each end.  The meat of the curve behaves just like this simple de-sat.

Relative RGB channel mix is a minor improvement over simple désaturation. This is to be expected since all channels are set to 33 percent.

Luminance human perception modeling gives an accurate translation of colors into Black and White for the way I "see" tonality and luminance.   This is an outstanding foundation from which to build tonal separation in digital Black and White photography.  Further, in-camera Sony, Fuji GFX, and Panasonic Lumix S (the only system I've looked at) all appear to conform to luminance human perception modeling Black and White jpg generation.

Relative RGB channel mix with RawTherapee's "Ortho" filter seems to look very much like modern orthochromatique film response.  If I want early silver nitrate light sensitive material response, this is most definitely not what I'd look for.  Close-ish.  No cigar.

Silver Nitrate relative RGB channel set specifically to Red=0 Green=10 Blue=90 appears to hit the target.  The tonal response curve closely matches that of old silver nitrate light sensitive materials.  Goal!

A little more:

I could spend far too long looking/comparing/evaluating various combinations of channel mixture and digital filters and this and that.  Should I ever find myself in such a state I processed a number of images.  The collection of the Madness is found here, and scroll right.

In practice, I find the luminance formula in RawTherapee to be excellent for general Black and White conversions.  To explore the early pre-panchromatic Black and White photography "look" my little "Silver Nitrate" formula gives me pleasing results.

Friday, November 21, 2025

Processing an Image

Just for fun I thought I'd post a quick comment on how I processed an image I took at Rodin's Atelier in Meudon.

Image -

Musée Rodin de Meudon ~ 2025

... and here's what I did to it: 

  • Let the in-camera meter do its best
  • Ricoh 55mm wide open at f/2.2  
  • *click* the shutter 
  • Opened RAW image in RawTherapee
  • Applied my 0EV Digital Zone System curve
  • Adjusted the ends of the curves for pure white and pure black
  • Opened the image in the Gimp
  • Back in RawTherapee, processed the sky for tonality and contrast
  • Opened the sky processed image in the Gimp as a layer over the first image
  • Gimp selected the sky of the first image
  • Added a black mask to the second layered image
  • Filled the selection area in the mask with pure white
  • Adjusted the mask "sharpness" to Gauss soften with a 10 pixel radius
  • Flattened the image and saved

Done.  That's it.  That's all it took to get these the way I wanted.

The trick, of course, was protecting the whites/highlights, then applying a correct Zone 3 thru 7 1EV step curve, and stripping in the sky. 

Friday, October 31, 2025

Lens Stories ~ Ricoh Riconar 55mm f/2.2

 Ricoh 55mm f/2.2

Cheap thrills.  That's the name of the game for this old fart.  Retired and living on a fixed income can do that to a person.  Under such Trying Circumstances it's thrilling to hit Pay Dirt, particularly when least expected. 

How on earth did I stumble upon this? Long story short, after reading about the Wollensak Raptar Series II and how it could be turned into a soft focus lens I've been in occasional Deep Cogitation mulling over the State of Things.  I like the idea of a "correct" soft focus lens for Full Frame and APS-C digital, _not_ one of those Over The Top spherical aberration lenses that everyone and their brothers-in-law already knows about.  All "soft focus" has _not_ been created equal.

Lacking sufficient Louis d'Or and Blue Chip Coupon Stamps for something like an Anachromat Kühn Tiefenbildner-Imagon 12cm, or a more modern Minolta 85mm f/2.8 Varisoft, or, heaven forefend, returning to large format with something very tasty mounted to the front standard and trying to find a darkroom somewhere in the Ilford/Adox Forsaken City of "Glorious Light", I turned what's left of my mind toward modifications that might be made to lenses. 

I looked at Russian Industar lenses.  Like the Wollensak Raptar Series II the Industar is tessar formula and looked for ways of controlling just how far in front of the factory installed position I could modify the position of the first element.  I looked at the Russian Biotar formula Helios.  These are easy to disassemble and "reconfigure."  And I thought about finding another Nikkor plasmat in poor shape and convert it (as I've done in the past).

Time Passes. 

One evening, casually enjoying the warm afterglow of a quite decent Alsacien dry, yes, bone dry, delicious Muscat and thumbing around the 'net I stumbled on a comment that I that caught my attention.

It was noted that the Ricoh Riconar 55m f/2.2 is not a "good" lens.  Commenters were complaining the thing has to be stopped way down to sharpen up.  Oh.  This could be Fun, right?  Soft, you imply?  Hmmm...

Ricoh 55mm f/2.2 

Looking up the lens, which until that moment I'd never heard of, and here I get all puffy-chested thinking I know so much camera/lens histories when in fact I don't, I found it's cheap and easy to acquire.  We're off to a Good Start.  Maybe an Old Man could afford one?  Short the wine stocks a bottle or two, tough things out for a couple days, and I'll bet I could see what's up with this Horrid Optic.

Before the lights went out for the night I found the lens is _not_ to be confused with a Fuji 55mm f/2.2 of similar vintage (not that I would've ever made such a Silly Mistake myself, um, where was I?).  The Ricoh design layout looks at a distance like an old Taylor Taylor and Hobson triple.  Squint.  See what I'm saying?  Except.  Except. Except, someone tore one down to find the Ricoh is actually four elements in four groups.  When I think of four elements in four groups I think of Artar process and Kodak 203 Ektar.  But the Ricoh is neither of those.  Strange things were unfolding at the Circle K.  I've never encountered anything so "odd."

Sleepily reading a bit further... a little light went on inside my head...  Damn! it was suddenly bright in here.  Gads. Shut that thing off, will ya?   It's time to go to sleep. FerKripeSake!  

There was an observation that the front element is used to focus the lens.  The other three elements remain stationary.  Stationary as in Not Meant To Move.  Stationary as the Rock of Gilbraltar.  Stationary as the English Monarchy.  Most likely they did this as a manufacturing/assembly cost cutting to the Bone Marrow Measure.  

OK.  My Curiosité Meter was now pegged.  I _had_ to have a look at this Slutty Easy Cheap Lens and see if it was as Beautifully Awful as was being suggested.  Front focus.  Simple element layout.  Cheap.  Widely available.  Did I mention cheap?  Easy, too.  Yes.  I think I just repeated me-self.

Ricoh 55mm f/2.2 

A very very short period of time passes. 

Glory Be! I get to keep my Sacred Bottles of Wine _and_ am now the proud owner of two of these Little Pieces of Crap.  10Euro.  15Euro.  How good is that?

Does it "work?"  Check out this series of images and tell me if you can sort out which images were made using the Ricoh.  Maybe it "works", eh?

Wednesday, October 29, 2025

Optical "softness" ~ three lens comparison

I have three optics that I've purchased over the years to see if I could use them as soft focus lenses on Full Frame and APS-C digital.  One lens is an early 50mm plasmat formula f/1.4 that shows spherical aberration when shot wide open.  One is an 85mm "meniscus" Soft Focus that has proven to be very difficult to control due in large part to its level of softness.  And one lens is a first element focusing 55mm lens that is proving interesting to understand.

The lenses are ~ 

  • Nikon Nikkor-S 50mm f/1.4
  • Pentax 85mm f/2.2 SF
  • Ricoh Riconar 55mm f/2.2

The Nikkor-S is well known.  It's a classic plasmat design.  As the lens was designed well before modern high-refractive index glass became available, the 50mm Nikkor shows obvious spherical aberration at f/1.4.  The effect largely disappears at f/2.  Stopped down the lens is indistinguishable from current 50/55mm lenses.

The Pentax SF is a beast of the lens to work with.  There is an enormous amount of spherical aberration at all apertures.  It's so strong that at f/2.2 and f/2.8 the underlying sharpness of a subject is heavily veiled and overall contrast is low.  As the lens is stopped down the contrast and central resolution improves, the veiling spherical aberration decreases, but the edges begin to show weird coke-bottle-bottom smearing.

The Ricoh Riconar 55mm f/2.2 has a bad reputation on at least one of the Pentax discussion forums for being soft with inconsistant/incomprehensible behavior.  The lens is a four element four group design and uses the front/first element to focus.  The other three elements and aperture positions remain fixed.  I've not encountered modern-ish SLR lenses with this configuration outside of this one Ricoh.  The difficulty to control this optic comes from the fact aperture and distance change the character/rendering of the lens (though 'netizens don't fully discuss this fact).

Looking at these three different ways, I wanted to observe differences in how softness is achieved on a close subject.  Softness behavior on distant subjects would be different, but I wanted to begin somewhere. 

Wide Open ~

Lenses shot wide open ~ entire scene

Wide open the Nikon and Ricoh show beautiful levels of softness.  The Pentax is quite obviously soft and of lower contrast (I used the exact same RawTherapee image processing recipe in all cases).

f/2.8  ~

Lenses shot at f/2.8 ~ entire scene

Stopping the lenses down to f/2.8 shows how the Nikon is becoming razor sharp.  The Ricoh is cleaning up a little, too and the overall rendition is, to my eyes, rather pleasing.  The Pentax continues to show strong softness, though contrast is slightly improved over f/2.2.

f/5.6 ~ 

Lenses shot at f/5.6 ~ entire scene 

At f/5.6 the lenses are cleaning up pretty well.  The Nikkor-S and Ricoh look sharp.  The Pentax is still a soft focus lens, but the subject is more clearly and cleaning revealed and the overall contrast is vastly improved over f/2.2 and f/2.8.

Closer Look ~

Trying to understand how each lens treats sharpness and out of focus areas reveals some interesting details. 

Local softness rendering ~ Nikkor and Ricoh wide open

I needed to stop the Pentax down to f/2.8 to show the subject better because at f/2.2 most of the details were lost.  Contrast is still low at f/2.8, but I begin to see what I wanted to see.  The left hand image is actually pretty sharp.  This comes from the effects of spherical aberration (which this lens has in abundance) on perceived depth of field.

The Nikkor-S is sharp at the point of focus.  The out of focus rendition is soft as one would expect.  Due to the lens design the transition from sharp to soft is dramatic. Modern high speed optics consistently behave in this manner.

On the other hand, the Ricoh behaves rather differently from the other two lenses.  The out of focus areas are extended due to aperture and spherical aberration (see the left hand image).  The highlights glow just as with early "pictorialist" lenses where the Nikkor-S and Pentax do not.  There's a sense of resolution that can be appealing even though the lens is not "bitingly" sharp.   Contrast wide open is the best of the these three lenses.

 

Local softness rendering ~ Pentax and Nikkor at f/2.8 

I can see why I feel the need to boost image contrast when using the Pentax 85mm SF.  The veiling spherical aberration is strong, but there's a potentially useful resolution under that veil.  In practice, increasing overall as well as local contrast during image processing might have some uses.  Back in the day I imagine photo-alchemists working to increase negative contrast as much as they could to try and overpower the contrast reducing veiling softness.

Nikon created a very decent lens.  At f/2.8 I see the level of optical correction improving to the point I can make a perfectly usable image in the current sense of such things.  The out of focus rendition remains soft and the contrast is nearly up to modern-lens levels.  For "soft focus" work, however, the optic doesn't really sing to me.  It's as if it's warming up but isn't quite ready for a full concert before an adoring "soft focus" audience.

Considering the overall rendition of the Ricoh at f/2.2 I see something I didn't think I'd ever find in a small format optic; controllable softness based on aperture and subject distance.  To me this lens behaves a lot like an early "soft focus" portrait lens.  While it's usable for landscape images (as I'll perhaps talk about another time), its specialty appears to be for portraiture and subjects closer to the camera.  This might be an optic worth exploring for "soft focus" work on Full Frame and APS-C digital formats.

Monday, October 06, 2025

Digital Zone System ~ Panasonic Lumix S9 in-camera B&W jpg generation

I had ever more good fortune to be able to borrow for another 20 minutes a brand new Panasonic Lumix S9.  

I'm surprised at how nice the camera is.  I'd be really happy to own one.  It'd be a kick to use.  Would I have to choose between this and the GFX100RF Fuji?  Or could I have both?  I could use all the vintage lenses I own.  The Panasonic allows for user generated LUTs - something I wish my Sony cameras offered.  The menu system is understandable and complete (with a HUGE number of video options, should a person decide to go that route).  

The only downsides to the S9 being the lack of EVF and electronic only shutter.  As with the limitations of the GFX I'm sure I could learn to live with the Panasonic as is.  Humans are sometimes adaptable, right?  Even at this age.

Me being me I was curious to see how the Panasonic would behave with regards to Digital Zone System tonal values as I've come to understand them and to see how Panasonic implemented their in-camera jpg engine.  I put this camera through my little procedures two days after the Fuji and looked at the default Black and White creative style, then at the in-camera Leica monochrome "film simulation" on the S9.

Here's what I see.

Panasonic Lumix S9 ~ in-camera B&W jpg generation

Comments ~

Comparing the default Black and White Panasonic output against the 1EV per Zone standard I see that Zone 5/0EV is +0.3EV higher than the #76 luminosity 18% black standard.  This is consistant and confirmed by performing several sweeps to see what the Panasonic's metering/jpg engine are doing.  Is it part of Panasonic's deliberate "look?"  Or something else?

Like with the Fuji the S9 blacks drop off a bit quicker than the 1EV per Zone standard, but compared against the Zone System tonal range of my Sony A6300 APS-C + DRO1 I see the Panasonic tracks the Sony recipe down to Zone 2, and then extends gently beyond the Sony's Zone 0.  

Highlights are "hotter" than both the "ideal" and the Sony A6300 recipe.  This is due to the way the camera meters Zone5/0EV.  Again, as with the Fuji, in the real world I would expect the Panasonic Lumix S9 to deliver "open" shadow tones.

Turning to the Leica Monochrome "film simulation" at default settings reveal, for me, a horror.  Look at what this recipe delivers.  Hot hot whites.  Why would Leica take a short highlight region (as is standard with digital systems for how sensors are currently implemented) and _shorten_ it?  it seems like a recipe for disaster.  

Maybe it's just me and the "cool kids" know something I don't, but if forced to use the Leica style I'd start be setting the exposure dial to at least -0.3ev, perhaps more, just so the highlights don't get blown.  True film NEVER behaved this way.  GACK!  What a mess.  But, it says Leica, so it must be good.  To someone.  Somewhere. 

As with the cameras I've thus far looked at from a Digital Zone System perspective, the Panasonic Lumix S9 has a "spot" meter selection and that buttons/touch screen selections are customizable for AEL lock.  The S9 would make a very fine stills Zone System device.  Just put the EV dial at -0.3, avoid shooting artificial lighting at the lightings cycle rate (banding would be a problem), avoid that silly Leica Monochrome "film simulation" unless you really understand where the tones lay and everything should be "good to go." 

Having looked at two new cameras after starting with my Sony's I've come to understand something.  Cameras offer similar capabilities independent of the marque.  Understanding how in-camera jpg ASIC engines deliver tone values in the framework of a Digital Zone System in Black and White "works" regardless of marque.  

I now feel confident in the Digital Zone System method.  The process described below appears to be sufficient to the task.

------------- References From Prior Posts ---------------

Note: Sony RAW delivers very good tonal separation in the dark tones that are not expressed when using the in-camera jpg processor EXMOR and EXMOR R versions of the ASIC.  It seems that Sony made a conscious choice about how the dark tones are handled.  There's nothing wrong with their decision as far as I'm concerned.  It's just something to know and work with.  

In my own work  I mitigate the steep dark tone drop-off of the default B&W setting by adding DRO1, which brings up the shadows to the degree I prefer.  Panasonic doesn't seem to require this kind of massaging by default, but could benefit from being used at -0.3EV to ensure Zone 5/0EV meets the industry standard specifications.

Zone System Definition ~

  • Zones are separated by 1 f-stop/1 Exposure Value (EV)
  • Zone 5 ~
    • old film days == 18% gray
    • digital tone value == #76(hexidecimal)/118(decimal)
  • Pure Black
    • old film days == Zone 0 at -5EV
    • digital tone values == -EV-whatever the camera system can deliver (commonly different between RAW - ideally -10EV!!!  and the in-camera jpg generator - Sony Creative Style Black and White in-camera seems set at -5EV, Fuji's GFX isn't demonstrably different from this)
  • Pure White
    • old film days == Zone 10 (last definition) or Zone 9 (earlier definition)
    • digital tone value == +4EV  as Zone 9 for the Sony cameras I own (this has been measured and is very important! to successfully using the Zone System in digital)

Digital Zone System In-Camera jpg Step Wedge generation ~ 

To evaluate in-camera jpg generation here's the method I used to create a Step Wedge that I could visually inspect to when making various in-camera parameter changes -

  •  Camera settings - 
    • ISO == 100
    • Creative Style B&W
    • B&W Contrast to a test value - I've tried -3 to +1
    • Dynamic Range Optimization - Off or DROx where x == [1, 2, 3]
    • Meter to Spot
    • Output file == jpg 
    • Manual focus and defocus the lens as much as possible to fully blur the scene (wanting just tone, no texture) 
  • Using an evenly lit surface (piece of paper, wall, etc)...
  • Take two photos at 0EV and verify which 0EV setting gives exactly #76/118(dec) in the center (where the Spot meter metered) by measuring the tonal value using an image processing software on a computer.  This will be Zone 5 per definition.
  • Raise EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 6 the tonal value as read on a computer 
  • Raise EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 7 the tonal value as read on a computer 
  •  Raise EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 8 the tonal value as read on a computer 
  • Raise EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 9 the tonal value as read on a computer
    • Verify that this tonal value is exactly or very very nearly Pure White
  •  Returning to Zone 5/0EV... lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 4 the tonal value on a computer 
  •  Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 3 the tonal value on a computer 
  • Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 3 the tonal value on a computer 
  • Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 2 the tonal value on a computer
  • Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 1 the tonal value on a computer
  • Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 0 the tonal value on a computer - this should record as #00/00(decimal), Pure Black

In practice, older/early mirrorless cameras only provide +/-3EV on the exposure wheel.  In these cases I use "M" (Manual) mode, set the aperture and ISO, then vary the shutter speed by 1EV up/down the test range.  On more recent cameras where +/-5EV is available on the I set the system to "S" (Shutter) mode, set the ISO, then vary the EV by 1EV using the exposure wheel.  Why any company allows +5EV is beyond me, but that's a topic for another time (noting that +5EV is 1EV ABOVE completely and utterly saturated pure white). 

Notes On USE: In a practical sense I find Zones 3 through 7 to be the most important.  If those are as close to 1EV separated as possible, then I like the output.  This is very similar to what I experienced back in the film days.

For the shadow areas I find I prefer Zones 0 through 2 to be rather outside the 1EV separation definition.  This matches film curves more closely and since I'm used to that I like a certain combination of Contrast and DRO settings.

For the highlights I like to make them "sparkle" if I can.  I find I prefer Zone 8 to be pushing closer to Pure White than not.  Having just written that, however, I shot an entire series of in-camera generated images that pleased me using nothing but Contrast == -3.  So it's worth testing different combinations of Contrast and DRO to see what works best for oneself.

 

Sunday, October 05, 2025

Digital Zone System ~ Fuji GFX100RF in-camera B&W jpg generation

I had the good fortune to be able to borrow for about 20 minutes a brand new Fuji GFX100RF.  What a beautiful camera Fuji has made.  I'd be thrilled to own one.  Yes, even if it is fixed lens, bigger than anything I currently own, and comes with a confusing array of knobs, dials, and buttons.  I'd adapt.  Really.  I could.

Reading the marketing literature and camera reviews I expected to see "better" performance of some kind or other out of this new Fuji over, say, any Full Frame or APS-C device.  Bigger is better, right?  How could it not be?

More specifically, I was curious to see how the Fuji with a larger than Full Frame sensor would behave vis a vis a Digital Zone System tonal values as I've come to understand them and to see how Fuji implemented their in-camera jpg engine.  I put the camera through its paces.  I started by looking at the default Black and White creative style and then turned my attention to Fuji's Acros in-camera "film simulation".

Here's what I found.

Fuji GFX100RF ~ in-camera B&W jpg generation

Comments ~

Comparing the default Black and White Fuji output against the 1EV per Zone standard I see that Zone 5/0EV is very close to the #76 luminosity 18% black standard.  The blacks drop off a bit quicker than the 1EV per Zone standard, but compared against the Zone System tonal range of my Sony A6300 APS-C + DRO1 I see the Fuji has a broader range of tones in the dark areas.  Highlights are nearly, but not quite identical between the "ideal", the Sony A6300 recipe and this Fuji.  The Fuji produces a brighter Zone 8.  Further, in practice I would expect the Fuji GFX100RF to offer up an "open" range of shadow tones over the Sony recipe.

As a side note, Sony RAW delivers very good tonal separation in the dark tones that are not expressed when using the in-camera jpg processor EXMOR and EXMOR R versions of the ASIC.  It seems that Sony made a conscious choice about how the dark tones are handled.  There's nothing wrong with their decision as far as I'm concerned.  It's just something to know and work with.  In my own work  I mitigate the steep dark tone drop-off of the default B&W setting by adding DRO1, which brings up the shadows to the degree I prefer.  Fuji doesn't seem to require this kind of massaging by default.

Looking at the Acros "film simulation" at default settings I see the entire tonal range is brought down to various degrees compared with the standard.  Perhaps this is what Fuji feels could give a sense of "richness" when using this style?  In any event, I feel the Acros setting simply produces a darker B&W image in camera.

I verified that the Fuji GFX100RF has a "spot" meter selection and that buttons are customizable for AEL lock.  So, just as with Sony upon which I developed the details of this Digital Zone System, the medium format Fuji appears to provide a decent platform for in-camera jpg Zone System tonal range management.  The "goodness" being, if I were wealthy enough to afford a Fuji in the first place, I would know exactly where to place the various tones of a scene.

 

------------- References From Prior Posts ---------------

Zone System Definition ~

  • Zones are separated by 1 f-stop/1 Exposure Value (EV)
  • Zone 5 ~
    • old film days == 18% gray
    • digital tone value == #76(hexidecimal)/118(decimal)
  • Pure Black
    • old film days == Zone 0 at -5EV
    • digital tone values == -EV-whatever the camera system can deliver (commonly different between RAW - ideally -10EV!!!  and the in-camera jpg generator - Sony Creative Style Black and White in-camera seems set at -5EV, Fuji's GFX isn't demonstrably different from this)
  • Pure White
    • old film days == Zone 10 (last definition) or Zone 9 (earlier definition)
    • digital tone value == +4EV  as Zone 9 for the Sony cameras I own (this has been measured and is very important! to successfully using the Zone System in digital)

Digital Zone System In-Camera jpg Step Wedge generation ~ 

To evaluate in-camera jpg generation here's the method I used to create a Step Wedge that I could visually inspect to when making various in-camera parameter changes -

  •  Camera settings - 
    • ISO == 100
    • Creative Style B&W
    • B&W Contrast to a test value - I've tried -3 to +1
    • Dynamic Range Optimization - Off or DROx where x == [1, 2, 3]
    • Meter to Spot
    • Output file == jpg 
    • Manual focus and defocus the lens as much as possible to fully blur the scene (wanting just tone, no texture) 
  • Using an evenly lit surface (piece of paper, wall, etc)...
  • Take two photos at 0EV and verify which 0EV setting gives exactly #76/118(dec) in the center (where the Spot meter metered) by measuring the tonal value using an image processing software on a computer.  This will be Zone 5 per definition.
  • Raise EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 6 the tonal value as read on a computer 
  • Raise EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 7 the tonal value as read on a computer 
  •  Raise EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 8 the tonal value as read on a computer 
  • Raise EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 9 the tonal value as read on a computer
    • Verify that this tonal value is exactly or very very nearly Pure White
  •  Returning to Zone 5/0EV... lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 4 the tonal value on a computer 
  •  Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 3 the tonal value on a computer 
  • Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 3 the tonal value on a computer 
  • Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 2 the tonal value on a computer
  • Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 1 the tonal value on a computer
  • Lower the EV by 1EV
    • Take a photo
    • Measure and note as Zone 0 the tonal value on a computer - this should record as #00/00(decimal), Pure Black

In practice, older/early mirrorless cameras only provide +/-3EV on the exposure wheel.  In these cases I use "M" (Manual) mode, set the aperture and ISO, then vary the shutter speed by 1EV up/down the test range.  On more recent cameras where +/-5EV is available on the I set the system to "S" (Shutter) mode, set the ISO, then vary the EV by 1EV using the exposure wheel.  Why any company allows +5EV is beyond me, but that's a topic for another time (noting that +5EV is 1EV ABOVE completely and utterly saturated pure white). 

Notes On USE: In a practical sense I find Zones 3 through 7 to be the most important.  If those are as close to 1EV separated as possible, then I like the output.  This is very similar to what I experienced back in the film days.

For the shadow areas I find I prefer Zones 0 through 2 to be rather outside the 1EV separation definition.  This matches film curves more closely and since I'm used to that I like a certain combination of Contrast and DRO settings.

For the highlights I like to make them "sparkle" if I can.  I find I prefer Zone 8 to be pushing closer to Pure White than not.  Having just written that, however, I shot an entire series of in-camera generated images that pleased me using nothing but Contrast == -3.  So it's worth testing different combinations of Contrast and DRO to see what works best for oneself.

 

Saturday, October 04, 2025

The Chromatic Blur ~ Bulletin du Photo Club de Paris ~ 1902 [translation]

After visiting the musee d'Orsay to see the fabulous exhibition of Celine Leguarde's works I came across an original publication.  It is the 1902 Bulletin du Photo Club de Paris.  Among the many interesting articles on technique, chemistry, new processes, etc. is a long article on lenses.

At the time lenses from photographic equipment suppliers were rather expensive.  I imagine that someone realized commonly available glass elements from eye glass opticians could be pressed into service for a much lower cost.

Using cheap lenses seems to have presented a problem of focus. Most of the article contains descriptions of the problem and calculations for the kinds of glass used (crown).  The calculations are for focal length, aperture, and assume the color spectrum range of the light sensitive materials (blue into green).  Ultimately, what the author gives is a method of accurately calculating how much focus change to apply.

Why all this?  Because the point of focus on a ground glass is different than what the light sensitive materials "see."  The reason is the ground glass image is full spectrum and the film responds to a very narrow range of visible light.  The lenses used had different focus points for different colors. 

While I've tried to "clean up" the article so it might be compréhensible to English readers, I've only done this lightly.  I find the original language to be very charming as well as providing a view into the French world of the very early 20th century.  If this is still accessible to readers, please say so and I will provide a more accurate translation in the sense of current word use, cultural sensitivities, and history.

It goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway, any faults in translation are mine and mine alone. 

Chateau de Chantilly ~ 2025


The Chromatic Blur

Among photography enthusiasts, there are those who value the sharpness of their productions by their weight in gold. The faster and sharper a lens is, the more valuable it is, especially since its price increases very quickly with its speed and sharpness.

Equipped with such a lens, expose short (under-expose), develop hard, and print on citrate: you will have a print that can serve as a mirror, and the model's hairs will be counted on it. If you want to make similar ones in slightly larger dimensions, with a wide aperture to go fast, and a long focus to avoid distortion (1), you will be tempted by these ultra-perfected lenses, but you will first find them to have a definite drawback, not to mention the others: they are very expensive.

I have before me the catalog of a famous foreign company that recommends for multiple uses (including portraiture) very large aperture lenses (1/3.6 to 1/5) covering the entire plate without astigmatism and with extremely fine sharpness. For the 13x18 plate and the 25-centimeter focal length, the lens already costs 535 francs. If you go up to 18x24, it's 865 francs. To make 24x30 (with a 47-centimeter focal length), you have to pay 1250 francs Finally, to achieve a focal length of 61 centimeters, with which the lens will indeed cover 30 × 40, it is necessary to spend 2,500 francs on it: it is a sum and I cannot resist the pleasure of saying that a lens of the same focal length (om, 61) will cost around thirty francs, with the same aperture, in the system of simple lenses that I am going to talk about. It will not have at all the same qualities, except speed, but will have others, which some will find preferable. Let us note that at the distance of 2 meters and with the focal length of o™,61, the enlargement will not be excessive. It will be nearly equal, slightly larger than 1/1 and smaller than the scale of most portrait enlargements which are cut in the color, and it is a size of site that must be achieved. One can approach figure studies that are interesting in themselves, and the merit of the composition lies in the lines of the face and in its modeling. We have just spoken of the photographers who stress “sharpness” in their works. Next to them are the Lewis artists who avoid sharpness of the object and who strive to alter by various artifices the implacable dryness of “sharpness.”

(1) We know that when we bring the lens closer than 2 meters (approximately) to a model who is not in profile, its image is distorted like that given by a garden ball into which we look too closely. According to some authors, the distance to be observed would be even greater, four meters or more.

I will be careful not to speak ill of these artifices because they all have their advantages as well as disadvantages and I will limit myself to simply pointing out the various systems.

[photo by De Pellige]

Pinhole??? The eye of the needle or ahupé has found a learned experimenter and enthusiastic promoters. It beats the reward of cheapness, but the subject must become that of patience because the exposures are counted by minutes, like in Daguerre's time.

Count d'Assche's eyeglass cases had their time of success. They were used a lot in Austria, it seems. In France, I know some skilled artists who own them, but I don't see that they use them often. There too, the relative aperture is very small and exposures are very long (1).

One can carefully focus any object, then slightly alter this exact focus so as to produce a certain degree of blur on the frosted glass, which will be reflected in the photograph. Softness is there, it's true; but it is not distributed uniformly or pleasantly. The curvature of the subjects surfaces and the variable depth of the focal for the various planes mean that the sharpness removed from the main subject most often reappears elsewhere, generally where it would not be desired. This process is used by several artists for lack of anything better, but they are not very satisfied with it.

I will not speak of the flicks produced by the camera during the exposure, nor of the imperceptible swaying that one expects from the model and that a very long exposure encourages, it seems. Here, the blur is even more difficult to control, and surprises in the end results are frequent

During the printing of the positive, a thin transparent sheet of gelatin or celluloid can be placed between the paper and the plate to add “softness” to a print. The amount of blur is adjustable by the number of transparent sheets used and is one of the best “softening” processes available to the artist. One can criticize practitioners for the difficulty of preserving the transparent sheets without scratches and the complication they introduce into the equipment. One can also regret that the blurring is absolutely uniform and blurs the features of the model and the least important accessories in rigorously equal quantities.

It is impossible to end this quick and certainly incomplete review of the blurring process without mentioning the binocular prints that Mr. Boissonnas presented at the 1900 Exhibition. Despite all my esteem for the beautiful productions of this skilled artist, I was not convinced by the brochure that accompanied his works, and I remain convinced that they simply constituted double photographs in a particular way

Readers, especially female readers, who do not feel a special vocation for calculus are asked to take my word for it and skip the small print that follows without reading it. If they are willing to show me the same confidence throughout this article, they will continue to skip the small print and reach the end of the large print more quickly. However boring they may have found the author’s mathematical details, they can say that they suffered little compared to what they avoided.

---------------------------- snip --------------------------

Note: I have excluded from this translation the many pages of calculations and descriptions of how to account for what we would effectively call in English "chemical focus."  If anyone is seriously interested I could pass along the original text.  It's interesting from a historical perspective, but would be difficult to apply in any meaningful way in the present day.

 ---------------------------- snip --------------------------

As for lenses, I mainly tried simple lenses and started with simple plano-convex lorgnettes called "periscopic," which can be found at all opticians for an expense of 0.40 francs to 1 franc, depending on the quality, with diameters up to 3 to 4 centimeters, and in all focal lengths from 0.055 to 3.85 (2 inches to 144 inches).

Calculation shows that these plano-convex lenses, arranged with their convexity forward, allow for a fairly large aperture with almost minimal spherical aberration (2). In practice, with exact correction, they produce very good images in the center, for apertures of f/9 and f/8, which allow for quick portraits outdoors or in the studio.

The field of sharpness is very restricted, but at a distance of 2 meters, the model's head is easily contained within it.

By turning the lens over, that is, by directing the flat face toward the light, and by placing a small diaphragm at f/5 in front (at and below), the field of sharpness is significantly increased, but from this point of view, the plano-convex lens always remains inferior to a meniscus (concave convex lens) with its concavity turned forward.

I believe that eyeglass lenses with this meniscus shape are available. They would probably serve well with small apertures, and at f/18 they would allow very brilliant snapshots, because, due to their small thickness and the reduced number of surfaces, absorption and stray reflections of light are reduced to a minimum in simple lenses. But, as I have explained, one would not see any blurring in these photographs taken with very small apertures

Lorgnette lenses are not readily available with diameters greater than 36 millimeters, which, for aperture F/8, corresponds to a focal length of 290 millimeters; if you want longer focal lengths, you must order the lenses, either from an optician, or better, from a factory. I paid 8 francs 40 cents, from a large firm, for a crown-shaped plano-convex lens, which seems perfectly crafted, 12 centimeters in diameter and 70 centimeters in focal length; we see that, even in these large
 dimensions and prices are affordable when it comes to lenses.

(1) The number of the lorgnette lenses indicates their focal length in inches: one inch 27 millimeters.

Board

The mounts are another matter; they are relatively expensive. A rack-and-pinion portrait lens mount costs 50 francs new, in three inches, and 25 francs used. In four inches, it's double: 50 or more francs. It is difficult to find these large mounts without lenses second-hand. The best thing to do is to do without them. A circular groove is cut into a board in the camera and the lens is fixed to it with points like a glass in a frame. On the front, either a shutter or a cardboard stopper is fitted, which can be ordered from a cardboard maker or made yourself: (fig. 6) a sort of candy box, blackened inside, at the bottom of which there is a hole of the diameter you want for the lens opening

Those who have a so-called portrait lens, of the Peltzval type with three lenses, with diaphragms, can make an excellent anachromatic lens by removing the first two, the front achromatic lens and the diverging flint that follows it.

The last lens of the lens, the one that forms the rear, is a converging crown lens, almost plano-convex with its main convexity directed towards the light. Its focal length is roughly the same as that of the entire lens. To prevent it from bouncing around in the mount, once the flint is removed, it is replaced with a cardboard ring.

Depending on whether the main convexity of this lens is directed forward or backward, it can provide all the services I have described with regard to spectacle lenses. With the convexity in front, the largest diaphragm (1/4.5), and exact correction, we obtain an extreme blur, with a very curious effect

The resources of chromatic blur are not limited to single lenses, and it seems that all double or triple lenses could be established without looking for achromatism and by reserving the variables that the optician has at his disposal to correct other aberrations: sphericity, curvature of the focal surface, astigmatism. It also seems that notable simplifications could thus be made to the lenses, with corresponding price reductions: the floor is given to the manufacturers.

In the meantime, while they provide us with an abundance of excellent anachromatic lenses, of great perfection and extremely cheap, we can, from now on, produce chromatic blur with good uncorrected double lenses, because these lenses have existed on the market for a very long time, disdained by artists who, ignorantly, pass by happiness. Image of life! A well-known company, which I can cite without being accused of advertising (because I indicate enough ways to do without it), the Steinheil company has been selling so-called Periscope lenses since 1865, composed of two simple crown menisci The company's brochure states that in small diameters, they allow apertures from F/12 to F/15 with a fixed correction, and that the sharp image embraces 60° with large diaphragms and 90° with small ones. These are the conditions of a good semi-wide angle rectilinear lens, the one that manufacturers readily call universal. If they are achieved with a fixed correction in small focal lengths, it is likely that they are also found in large ones, with a variable... and exact correction.

The prospectus I mentioned also states that there are commercially available, under the name Bistigmat, two-lens lenses that are nothing more than imitations of the periscope. I don't know these imitations, but they may be excellent. Many lenses are nothing more than more or less successful copies of famous types. The more complicated the lens, the more difficult it was to establish its corrections, and the more likely the copy is not to achieve them. A lens as simple as the periscope must, on the contrary, be imitated with deplorable ease for the scientist who took the trouble to calculate it the first time

These imitations are also found in most photography bazaars. At the beginning of their lens catalog, you generally encounter a type that is humbly titled imitation rectilinear or rectilinear fashion, and which is intermediate in price between the achromatic lens, which is the simple lens formed of two glued glasses, and the least expensive and least pretentious rectilinear lens, which is composed of two simple lenses placed symmetrically. Well, greet the imitation rectilinear lens, because it is an anachromatic that doesn't know it! It is composed of two symmetrical crown menisci, and its largest aperture is f/8 to f/10.

In this state, it will take you quick portraits with a pleasant oftness of lines. From f/15 to f/18 you will have good snapshots in a sharp angle of 60° and stopped down between, and it will provide a respectable wide angle covering an angle of 90° if its mount allows it.

I have before me two catalogs A and B, and here are the prices of the rectilinear imitations (the focal lengths are not indicated).

To cover

9X12

13X18

18X24

Catalog A Catalog B

11 francs 13 francs

22 francs

10 15 20

For those who want to try these lenses, I remind you how to correct them. F being the focal length in millimeters, the correction in millimeters is approximately F and exactly: FX 0.0176

It is worth doing this multiplication exactly once and writing the round number of millimeters on the mount. Then write a correction curve on the camera's tail, as I indicated on page 94, or correct in your head by measuring the magnification (p. 85).

I also remind you, and this applies to all anachromatic lenses, that the larger the aperture of the diaphragm, the greater the blur, even with exact correction and rigorous focusing

Below f/9, this focusing presents no difficulty, and the frosted glass does not reveal that the achromatism correction is lacking. Above f/9, the black lines on a white background begin to be bordered by an iridescent fringe that becomes more pronounced as the aperture increases, and, for very large apertures, the focusing appears uncertain. It is best to focus on slightly large printed characters, black on white, and to stare at the glass when these characters appear dark violet-blue, almost black, without a red or yellow fringe.

As for the services that anachromatic lenses, single or double, can provide, they fall into various categories.

These lenses are excellent at short and medium focal lengths (0.5 to 0.30). At a large aperture, they provide quick portraits, softened by their precious blur; stopped down, the lenses...

Double lenses replace, for all possible uses, lenses four or five times more expensive. Finally, the landscaper who needs various focal points to meet the needs of the viewpoint, while covering his plate completely, finds in a set of anachromatic menisci an ideal kit, of minimal bulk and price.

In the long focal lengths, 0.30 to 0.60 and above, anachromatic lenses have inestimable merits. The aridity and exasperating detail of the corrected lens are particularly odious here; the softness, the blending of the anachromatic, especially pleasant. Whether it is a question of figure, genre, or still life, the difference is extraordinary. And what's more, the anachromatic with the longest focal point costs almost nothing, while the corrected lenses reach fantastic prices as soon as the covered plate begins to grow seriously.

[photograph by C. Puyo]


Now, long focal points, by allowing perspective, provide figures, genre, and still lifes, perspectives that the eye much prefers to those of short focal points.

Our eye is a lens that moves and reasons, so the impression it feels of a subject is not that of the rigorously geometric and flat perspective of which the iris would be the point of view. The eye only sees clearly at a very small angle, about 6º. This clear brush, he moves it successively and rapidly over all the parts of the scene that he wishes to embrace, and the perceived image is always normal to the visual ray; consequently, the whole is a perspective traced on a sphere and not on a plane, and it is the instantaneous memory of these successive perspectives that constitutes vision.

But that is not all: the eye knows, by experience, the real size and direction of the lines that perspective distorts on the edges of the painting, and in the instantaneous memory that it keeps of them it restores them in part in their real sizes and directions

In short, when the eye is placed too close to a scene to be able to truly encompass it in a single glance, it composes, by unconscious reflection, an instantaneous memory little different from the impression it would have had if it had been placed far enough away to truly encompass it all at once. So that by stepping back, thanks to a long focal length, the artist achieves more or less the perspective that the eye believes it sees, even up close.

This distant perspective is very satisfactory, whereas if the distance from the camera to the subject falls below a certain limit that can be set approximately at 2 meters, whatever the focal length, the photographic image reveals distortions that the eye does not notice

If it's a full-frontal portrait, the nose is too big and the ears too small, like the image given by a garden ball or a spoon. If the lens has captured a genre scene or a still life, the objects or subjects in the foreground appear enormous, and those in the background seem tiny. In the front, a Brodbignac chair, and in the background, furniture from Lilliput!

With the long-focus lens, there's nothing like this to fear. But we've seen that this lens is unbearable if it doesn't produce blur! So...

And now let the reader not imagine that I believe I have discovered simple objectives. On the contrary, I think that they must have already been used to create confusion in this country and in others, and several times since the late Daguerre. I am ashamed of not knowing it, to say so myself, and I console myself by thinking, with an eminent philosopher (1), that ideas are always found in common; it 
the only thing personal is the way of exposing and illuminating them."

11) Ad. Coste. Revue de Sociologie

I would like to point out, however, that the process described above differs notably from that of the spectacles recommended by Count d'Assche and by Messrs. Watzeck and Loæhr, of Vienna. Anachromatic lenses work at a large aperture, even when they are formed from a single plano-convex lens. These are true lenses which clearly cover a certain surface, and in this clear field there remains no blur other than the chromatic blur. Spectacles, on the contrary, are slow, because they are always strongly diaphragmed (small diametere, small f/stop?) at least, and often. For such apertures, we have seen that the chromatic blur becomes imperceptible. The remaining blur can only come from an inaccurate correction of the focus or from spherical aberration and astigmatism, defects from which biconvex lenses are affected to a high degree

The question has another aspect to which the author of these lines is drawn by a secret tenderness, and which he asks permission to explain in two words. Stand firm and be kind enough not to laugh.

Photography provides artists with a powerful means of expression: nowhere is this better known than in this house.

To sciences of every kind, it offers processes of investigation and recording that nothing can replace, and it even accumulates materials for history. Just ask Presidents on their travels!

But photography has yet another role, certainly broader: to provide a healthy and captivating distraction to a multitude of good people who are growing larger every day.

Healthy, because it exercises and develops attention, care, and taste; captivating, because it is a commonplace observation that the demon of photography quickly reigns supreme over the hearts it has bitten

Such a man, whom an evening club absorbed in a disturbing way, has become the most orderly husband since his tête-à-têtes with the red lantern began. Farewell, queen of spades! Away with the queen of hearts! Mothers, wives, you will never know what you owe to gelatin-bromide!

The anachromatic lens can extend this beneficent empire by putting optical resources within reach of the humblest purses that the achromatic lens achieves through a difficult construction and for an excessive price. One economy easily leads to another, and certainly photographic equipment involves other simplifications. The use of negative papers instead of plates has been the subject of recent studies that appear full of promise.

May these studies succeed, and many others with them, so that photography continually expands its domain and becomes more popular every day. May the anachromatic lens guide it towards the crowd, and may it compete not only with the Cercle, but also with the Cabaret! This is the grace I wish for it.

[photograph by DE PULLIGNY] 

Tuesday, September 02, 2025

Camera Craft ~ September 1934 ~ Notes On The Miniature Camera ~ About the Paper Negative by William Mortensen

Continuing work with a 35mm Leica camera, William Mortensen further described how to use techniques developed for large format images could be applied to the "miniature camera."

The use of paper negatives was talked about when I lived and worked as a B&W print technician in Hollywood, California.  We never used the process in the lab since we were devoted to cranking out museum quality prints at a rather hellatious rate and paper negatives would've slow down our entire process.  We would've needed to work much more closely with photographers and would've needed hours of work on one image.  There simply was zero time for such things.

After reading the following article, I wish I'd taken the time to explore this technique.  In fact, I wish I still had access to a darkroom to work this out in.  Alas, I and my colleagues were held under the St. Ansel, Group F 64 spell of "purist", "realistic" photography back in the day and digital photography arrived before I realized making paper negatives could add to the art and craft of photography.

What caught my attention is William Mortensen's stress on techniques used to avoid what he called the "Fuzzy Wuzzys."  St. Ansel used the same term and derisively applied it to Mortensen's work.  Alas, Mortensen himself preferred to avoid softness in his images.  Which underscores an obvious point that he who "wins" gets to write history.

This will be the last William Mortensen article that I re-post for now from the original 1934 Camera Craft publication.  In a month or two I'll try to remember to post a translation of an article from the Camera Club of Paris 1902 that talks about single element lenses, where to buy them (back in the day), and how to adjust the focus point to correct for chromatic aberration.

Until then, the following William Mortensen article is a real "banger" of a thing to read. 

--------------------------------

Notes On The Miniature Camera
William Mortensen
About the Paper Negative

There are probably two hundred thousand miniature cameras at present in use.  These represent the ultimate refinement of the experience and labours of the most skillful makers of optical apparatus in the world. Hundreds of miles of film pass through these cameras annually, and millions of exposures are made. But despite this tremendous expenditure of materials and energy, the pictorial output is amazingly small.  The mountain has indeed laboured, but to date nothing so lively and prolific as the proverbial mouse has made its appearance.  There are occasional creditable pictures made from miniature negatives, to be sure; but when compared with the colossal effort, the showing is not impressive.

As a tour de force of camera engineering the miniature instrument seems to exert a strange compulsion with many of its users to linger unduly over the technical aspects of their craft, with a proportionate disregard of the fact that the true end and aim of photography is the making of pictures. Light meters, thermometers, chronometers, logarithms, graphs and higher mathematics have converted minicam photography into a sort of scientific black magic. Amateur photographers assume the manner of initiates performing mysterious rites at the dark of the moon, mumbling gamma factors as they compound their developers. Snapping the shutter becomes a ceremony, and developing the negative, a sacrament. But at this point, apparently, the fine ecstacy exhausts itself; for nine out of ten minicam owners seem to be content for their final result with a perfunctory bromide enlargement of the most bromidic character. 

Even the best workers are inclined to distrust all types of "processing."  No doubt they fear the loss, through processing, of definition and gradation, virtues which they rightly treasure very highly.. As a matter of fact, miniature negatives may be processed, as I have discovered through my own experience, without serious loss of gradation, and with an apparent gain in definition. The paper negative and bromoil transfer are processes that the miniature camera worker would do well to employ.

For a process of such great potentialities there has been surprisingly little literature on the subject of the paper negative. This paucity of material is no doubt partially due to the simple and obvious nature of the fundamental principle of the process: "paper negative"
the term is practically self-explanatory.  But most amateur experiments with the procedure terminate very unsatisfactorily; for there is a great deal more to the process than the fact that it utilizes a negative made of paper. Correctly understood and handled, the paper negative is one of the noblest processes available to the pictorialist. It is employed by Echague, who is probably the outstanding pictorialist of these times. The scope it provides for selectivity and control is only slightly less than that afforded by the bromoil transfer.  Indeed, I have found in working with pupils that it affords the best possible preliminary training for the latter process.  Not only are the facilities for local alteration similar, but a similar type of original print is required.  A print that is correct in quality for a paper negative is also suitable to being converted into a bromoil matrix.

In broad outline the paper negative procedure as I practice it is as follows: A bromide enlargement is made from the original negative. After the desired alterations are made on the enlargement, it is placed with it's emulsion side in contact with emulsion of another sheet of bromide paper and, by printing through, converted into a negative. Further alterations may be made on this negative, after which it is again placed in contact, emulsion to emulsion, with a third sheet of bromide paper on which the final positive print is made.

Camera Craft 1934 William Mortensen illustration 

The procedure given above differs in various respects from that advocated by other workers. For example, instead of starting with a simple bromide enlargement, some advocate making a film positive. I prefer the paper positive on account of its simplicity and much greater ease of alteration. Extensive alteration of a miniature film positive is a
practical impossibility, whereas the enlarged print allows for changes in the same terms in which they will appear on the final print. Another point of difference involves the making of the final print from the paper negative. At this juncture, instead of placing the emulsions in contact, one authority advises putting the emulsion side of the negative against the plain side of the priniting paper, so that the light passes through the thickness of both papers. This procedure, he suggests, minimizes grain, because the texture of one paper tends to neutralize that of the other. My experience, however, indicates that this method introduces undesirable diffusion and fuzziness: keeping the emulsions always in contact, on the other hand, permits of no loss of definition. As far as grain is concerned, I am unable to discern any difference between the results of the two methods.

Much more important than the mechanical details of the process ( variants of which each practitioner may work out for himself ) are certain requisites of print and negative quality.  It is failure to understand these that is chiefly responsible for the unsatisfactory outcome of most experiments with paper negatives. Not every print by any means, not
even every good print, is adaptable to the process. There are three of these requisites, and they must all be observed if good results are to be obtained.

CONTRAST MUST BE AVOIDED. The tendency of the paper negative, as of most other processes, is to exaggerate contrast. What seems an effectively contrasty print is often converted into sheer black and white. Hence great care must be taken to secure and preserve all the middle half-tones. There are three sources of contrast, all of which  must be avoided, (a) It may be the result of one-sided, unbalanced lighting.  A fairly flat lighting is much better for processing, (b) The contrast may be inherent in the local colour of the subject, with large areas of light and dark placed in juxtaposition, (c) Contrast may be of chemical origin. For this reason, in working with paper negatives, it is necessary to avoid contrasty emulsion on the original negative, as well as on the bromide paper, and to avoid likewise contrasty developers for paper negative and final print.

THE SOFTNESS OF THE ORIGINAL PRINT AND OF THE PAPER NEGATIVE MUST BE INTRINSIC AND GENUINE. A sort of spurious softness is to be obtained by under-development.  But a print thus secured will not produce a good paper negative.  A print of
the right type shows a scanty use of pure black and white, but a full and complete range of half-tones lying between. Such a print is to be gotten only by full development and correct quality of the original negative.

THE ORIGINAL NEGATIVE MUST BE OF CORRECT QUALITY.  In larger negatives slight deviations from the standard may be permitted; but in miniature negatives each deviation is magnified to a disaster when it is enlarged.  A negative of correct quality utilizes the full range of half-tones that its emulsion affords.  It therefore exhibits a very sparing use of either full black or complete transparency, reserving the former for nothing but the intensest high-lights, and the latter for nothing but the deepest accents of the shadows. Between these two extremes there must be shown a complete range of translucent half-tones, providing modelling by delicate gradation in the light area, and giving a suggestion of drawing in the darker area. This type of negative is very difficult to obtain unless one understands the precise factors of exposure and development that enter into it. Broadly speaking, these factors may be summed up in two rules. ( 1 ) The minimum of exposure. ( 2 ) The maximum of development. By "minimum of exposure" is meant an exposure based on the light area (rather than on the shadows, as the older rule has it). Such a procedure preserves all the half-tones of the light area, instead of lumping them together with the high-lights as the conventionally over-exposed negative does. But to secure all these half-tones it is essential that the second rule be equally observed. By "maximum of development" is meant full development. Any negative that has to be "jerked" from the developer in order to prevent the light area from blocking up is ipso facto an over-exposed negative. With a developer of reduced alkalinity there is no such thing as over-development if the original exposure has been correct.

Camera Craft 1934 William Mortensen illustration 

The same two rules must be observed in making prints and paper negatives in order to save at every point the all-important middle tones.  For this reason I not only employ the briefest possible exposure compatible with the above theory of density, but employ the A solution of D64 at one quarter strength (i.e., one part of D64-A plus three parts of water).

In addition to a negative of correct quality, the following equipment and materials are required for the paper negative procedure as hereafter outlined.
Projection printer.
11x14 printing frame.
Retouching desk, sub-illuminated.  ( Failing this, a contact printer will serve. )
Carbon pencil, Wolfe BB.
Felt stump.
Venus pencil, medium.
An ample supply of XF bromide paper. (Defender velour black F)

For clearness of demonstration I have chosen an example showing a rather extreme amount of control. Not only has a background been added, but there are numerous local alterations. The model was originally photographed in front of an illuminated white screen under a flat front light. A tall gray box served for the vertical form in the background. 

 Note that the original print (fig. 1) is amply supplied with half-tones, and that there is nowhere in it an extreme contrast of black and white. As a first step in planning the picture, make a small enlargement (about 4x6), determine the most effective framing, and with pencil and eraser make a rough preliminary lay-out of the intended structural alterations.

 Using this as a guide, proceed with making an 11x14 enlargement on F paper, framing it in accordance with the plan. Be careful not to over-expose the print, and develop it for four minutes in the A solution of D64, one quarter strength.

[My comment: Developer Formula D-64 is then described... but is not provided here...]

After the print is dried and pressed proceed to make the desired alterations. Work with pencil on the face of the print, and with transmitted light. Use the Venus pencil for detail and the carbon pencil for broad passages when intense black is required. The stump is used to accomplish gradations of tone. Begin working with the head. Do not make the error of starting with the background, lest you lay in the tone too dark. The head and figure, as the dominating element of the picture, must determine the key of the other planes of the picture. Emphasize the shadows, rounding the contour of the head and the orbits of the eyes, and filling in between strands of hair and badly placed light passages.
If it is necessary to get extremely dense blacks, turn the print over and work on the back also. Remember always that it is the transparency value of this print that is of  importance, not the surface appearance.

Proceed down the figure, adjusting the drapery and shadowing the  breasts slightly to emphasize the modeling of the body.  Notice (by comparison with the final print) that the vegetables in the lower corners are considerably lowered in tone to lead the eye to the center of the picture.

When the key tone of the dominating plane of the picture is established,  begin work on the next plane, which in this case is the timber and stone wall. Be careful to avoid mechanical monotony in the stones, and note that they are suggested with light and shade and not literally drawn in. Keep this plane in a lighter tone than that of the figure. The other planes are built up in order, with progressive lightening of tone.  Note that the distant spires echo, in form and number, the motive of the hanging moss, and that the mountains carry out, but not too obviously, the rhythm of the neck-line. The sky is darkened inward from the edges to bring the strongest contrast opposite the head.

To make the paper negative, lay this altered print in the printing frame, emulsion upward, press it into close contact with the glass and lay a piece of F paper over it, emulsion down. Before locking up the frame be sure that the two papers are in absolute contact, for any bubbles or bulges are disastrous. Give it an exposure commensurate with four minute development, with the lens of the projection printer wide open.

The paper negative thus obtained ( Fig. 2 ) shows some increase in contrast, but, thanks to the softness and gradation of the original print, this increase is not serious.  At this stage, incorporation of light passages is accomplished. As with the initial print, the work is started on the principal plane of the picture. The detail of the hair is renewed, and the high-lights on the face are intensified. The modeling of the body beneath the dress is suggested by a few high-lights. The neck-line of the dress is lightened and almost eliminated in order to pull the light passages of the picture together. For the same reason the embroidery pattern on the right shoulder is much subdued and considerably lightened in tone. High-lights are intensified on the sash, on the fingers and on the vegetables in the foreground. Notice also that the bad fold breaking the line of the right sleeve is eliminated, and a slight correction made of the disagreeable foreshortening of the fingers of the left hand. Detail and character is given to the confused mass of foliage at the left. Passing then to the other planes of the picture, the high-lights are intensified on the stones in the wall and the sky slightly brightened near the head.

The procedure for making the final print is the same as that described for the paper negative.   The exposure and development times are the same. In printing, the principal figure may be given increased dominance, if desired, by "dodging" with the negative removed.

Camera Craft 1934 William Mortensen illustration 

 The picture "The Sophisticate" was made by a pupil of mine. I have included it because it is an excellent "piece of work and because it shows the extremely personal type of expression possible with the paper negative process. In this case the formal aspect of the figure has been emphasized by bringing out the wiry outline and making it tight and rigid.

Like Projection Control or any other control process, the paper negative is liable to unskilful and ignorant abuses that make the judicious grieve.   Paper negative prints are frequently to be seen in salons and photographic annuals that betray complete lack of knowledge of human anatomy by placing the high-lights in utterly impossible locations. Others, by harsh and obviously drawn outlines, completely violate the integrity of the photographic original. The process must not be regarded as a means of "doping up" an indifferent picture to conceal earlier technical blunders: technically, the original print should be able to stand on its own merits. A control process lays a heavy burden on its user because it cuts him off from the precise mechanical guidance of the camera. Unless
he knows what he wants to do and how to do it, he is very certain to find that what he has made is a mistake, and not a picture.